A review of the Grand Seiko Shirakaba model "SLGH005." I was once again impressed by the splendor of the smooth finish.

2022.12.27

Grand Seiko's new-generation movement, the Cal. 9SA5, announced in 2020, features an innovative dual impulse escapement and twin barrels. It achieves a high beat rate of 36,000 vph and a long power reserve of approximately 80 hours. The first regular model to feature the Cal. 9SA5 is the SLGH005, commonly known as the Shirakaba model. We explore the appeal of this model, which is currently hugely popular around the world.

GS-SLGH005

Takeshi Hoshi: Photography
Photographs by Takeshi Hoshi (estrellas)
Yutaka Fukuda: Interview and writing
Text by Yutaka Fukuda
[Article published in the July 2023 issue of Kronos Japan]


"Evolution 9 Collection SLGH005" Impression Items

Evolution 9 Collection SLGH005

Evolution 9 Collection SLGH005
The Cal. 9SA5 movement has a large diameter and a horizontal gear train structure, making it revolutionary thin. As a result, the case is 11.7mm thick, comparable to models equipped with manual winding movements. Automatic winding (Cal. 9SA5). 47 jewels. 36,000 vibrations per hour. Power reserve of approximately 80 hours. Stainless steel (diameter 40mm, thickness 11.7mm). Water resistance for everyday use (10 bar). Price: 1,045,000 yen.

1. Case
Is the crown easy to pull and turn?
Is there any play on the left and right when you pull out the crown?: Yes

2. Bracelet & Strap
Is the buckle easy to remove?
Is the bracelet loose, the strap bend, and the hole pitch appropriate?: Yes

3. Dial, hands, and crystal
When exposed to a strong light source, do the indexes and hands sink into the dial?
Is the clearance between the dial and the hands too large?

4. Movement
Is the needle setting smooth?
Is the sound of the rotors rotating annoying? Yes

Grand Seiko's SLGH005 "White Birch Model" wins the GPHG2021 Men's Watch category award
http://www.webchronos.net/news/71874/


I was once again amazed at the splendor of the smooth finish.

 This is my first time participating in an impression session, so there are many things I'm unfamiliar with. I was in charge of the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Collection SLGH005, a model equipped with the so-called "white birch" mechanical high-beat movement, caliber 9SA5.

The "SLGH005" further evolves the "Seiko style" established in the "44GS," featuring larger, more three-dimensional hands and indices. The birch dial represents the birch forests near Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi. The deep unevenness and sparkling white shine create a unique beauty and charm.

 As you may know, this model has received high praise overseas, including winning the Men's Watch category at the 2021 Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix (Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève, or GPHG), and is currently in short supply. As a result, only samples are available for loan. Therefore, we decided not to measure the dynamic accuracy during everyday use this time. The Kronos Japan editorial team will conduct actual measurements when we borrow a real watch and report on them at another time. Well, this is an unfamiliar subject, and an unexpected development from the start, but we've been told to continue with our impressions. Now, let's get to work.

The Grand Seiko style is all about smooth finishes. The bracelet is also smoothly finished in every corner, so it fits comfortably on the wrist. The beauty of the two-tone polished and satin finish is also outstanding.

 Of course, this is not my first time holding the SLGH005. But looking at it, touching it, and sharing my first impressions with a fresh perspective, I am once again amazed at how smooth everything is. While a smooth finish is common among luxury watches in this price range, this model's smoothness stands out. This is likely due to the "Seiko style" established by the 44GS and Grand Seiko's outstanding finishing techniques. The case and bracelet are both smooth all the way through, and there's nothing at all bothersome about wearing it on the wrist. This makes it feel as if it's been there for a long time. Rolex is probably the only other watch that offers this kind of feel.

 So, was it really comfortable to use and didn't bother me at all? Not really. I didn't notice it at first, but after a while I started to notice the high center of gravity.

 Some may be skeptical. The new-generation movement, caliber 9SA5, announced in 20, is said to have achieved a groundbreaking thinness by increasing the diameter of the movement and adopting a horizontal gear train structure. As a result, the SLGH005 equipped with this caliber has a low center of gravity and is said to be comfortable to wear.

 Naturally, I knew this myself. So I wondered why the center of gravity felt so high, and looked into it again. The caliber 9SA5 is 31.6 mm in diameter and 5.18 mm thick. This is certainly thinner than the caliber 9S85. It's an excellent thinness for a high-performance movement with a high beat rate of 36,000 vph and a long power reserve of approximately 80 hours. However, it is much larger, thicker, and (probably) heavier than the ETA 2892A2, which has a diameter of 25.6 mm and a thickness of 3.65 mm.

The Cal. 9SA5 has plenty to talk about, including its dual impulse escapement and twin barrels. Another major feature is that a designer was added to the design team from the conception stage of the movement, and a beautiful appearance was pursued. Other notable features include the adoption of a free-sprung mechanism and a double-bridge balance bridge. The beautiful striped "Shizukuishigawa" finish is also appealing.

 Also, the movement is not mounted very low, judging from the height of the crown. In other words, a large, thick, heavy movement is mounted high up on the waist. In addition, the case is heavy and voluminous. Therefore, it swings a lot when you move your arm. The head feels heavy.

 So what about the balance with the bracelet? If the case is heavy, then making the bracelet heavy to balance it out is certainly the right approach. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph is a prime example. Combining a large, thick case with a thick bracelet makes it comfortable to wear.

 However, personally, I also like the opposite approach. For example, pairing a large military pilot's watch with a NATO strap. Since the case is heavy, the strap should be lighter, making it easier to wear. So, rather than a bracelet that gives more room for movement, this model might be better suited to a tightly fitted leather strap. If I have the opportunity again, I'd definitely like to try it.

The "Seiko style" is achieved by cutting the hands in a multifaceted manner, making them sparkle beautifully and improving visibility. The SLGH005 evolves this Seiko style, adopting larger, more three-dimensional hands. This achieves even greater beauty and ease of reading. The distortion-free reflection of the second hand in the hour hand shows the high quality of the polishing.

 Now, let's move on to my impressions. First of all, the large crown is easy to operate. It also feels good when you wind it by hand. The light, jingling sound is pleasant, and it makes you want to wind it by hand even more. There is no rattle around the crown. The hands are set accurately, and there is no jumping.

 The movement of the second hand, which ticks off 1/10 of a second, is a sight to behold. However, the fact that there is also a Spring Drive model made of the same white birch is a bit of a problem. The smooth movement of the hand is something special.

 The legibility is excellent. The dial, which is modeled after a birch forest and is a distinctive feature, has a snow-white shine that is a major attraction. Therefore, at first glance, the combination of this white shine and the faceted hands and indices may seem difficult to read, with a white background and chrome. However, the diamond-cut hands and indices contrast sharply with the sparkling, matte dial, making them easy to read even in direct sunlight or strong lighting. While people's opinions on the thicker hands are divided, there's no denying that they are now even easier to read.

 As a reader, I've always wondered about the sound of the rotor of an automatic watch: how loud is it to be considered irritating? The volume is about the same as that of the Sellita Caliber SW200 and the ETA 2892A2. While the Caliber SW200 and the ETA 2892A2 have a dry sound, the Caliber 9SA5 has a smooth sound. In any case, the sound is hardly noticeable in everyday use. However, since it's not as silent as the Audemars Piguet Caliber 2121, I gave it a rating of 〇 instead of ◎.

 Finally, if I were to ask if I wanted this watch, I would like to get it if I had the chance. I'm looking forward to discovering new things about it if I use it for a little longer. But there's no doubt that it's a great watch.


Contact info: Seiko Watch Customer Service Center Tel. 0120-061-012


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