The Roman Gautier Insight Micro Rotor Natural Titanium is an ambitious piece that combines classic and avant-garde elements.

2022.12.28

It has been 15 years since I happened to come across Romain Gauthier and interviewed him shortly after the brand released its first model in 2007, and wrote what was probably the first introductory article in Japan. So what kind of watch is the Insight Micro-Rotor that was released afterwards? How is it different from the earlier model, and how has it evolved?
In an effort to unravel this mystery, I began writing my impressions with great interest.

Masatomo Yoshie: Photographer
Photographs by Msanori Yoshie
Nabata Politics: Interview and text
[Article published in the July 2023 issue of Kronos Japan]


"Insight Micro Rotor Natural Titanium" Impression Items

Insight Micro Rotor Natural Titanium

Insight Micro Rotor Natural Titanium
This model is unique to Romain Gauthier, with its Grand Feu enamel off-center dial and exposed balance wheel design. The case is made of meticulously polished natural titanium. Automatic winding. 33 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 80 hours. Ti (diameter 39.5mm). Water resistant to 5 bar. Price: 1188 million yen.

1. Case
Is the crown easy to pull and turn?
Is there any play on the left and right when you pull out the crown?

2. Bracelet & Strap
Is the buckle easy to remove?: Yes
Is the bracelet loose, the strap bend, and the hole pitch appropriate?

3. Dial, hands, and crystal
When exposed to a strong light source, do the indexes and hands sink into the dial?
Isn't the clearance between the dial and the hands too large?

4. Movement
Is the needle setting smooth?
Is the sound of the rotors rotating annoying?

Accuracy test using a rate measuring device (static accuracy)

T0 o'clock T0 o'clock T0 o'clock T24 o'clock T24 o'clock T24 o'clock T48 o'clock T48 o'clock T48 o'clock
Rate Swing angle Single swing angle Rate Swing angle Single swing angle Rate Swing angle Single swing angle
on the dial -2 seconds/day 250° 0.0ms -2 seconds/day 250° 0.0ms -6 seconds/day 214° 0.0ms
12 o'clock above +4 second/day 254° 0.0ms +3 second/day 200° 0.0ms +4 second/day 175° 0.0ms
3 o'clock above 0 seconds/day 257° 0.2ms -2 seconds/day 203° 0.2ms +1 second/day 182° 0.3ms
6 o'clock above -1 seconds/day 256° 0.0ms -2 seconds/day 198° 0.0ms +2 second/day 181° 0.0ms
9 o'clock above +3 second/day 251° 0.1ms +6 second/day 205° 0.2ms +8 second/day 181° 0.2ms
Below the dial +5 second/day 298° 0.1ms +3 seconds/day 248° 0.1ms +4 second/day 215° 0.1ms
average +2 second/day 269.5° 0.06ms +1 second/day 217.3° 0.08ms +2.1 second/day 19.3° 0.1ms


Roman Gautier's ambitious work that combines classic and avant-garde

 I first featured a Roman Gauthier watch in a watch magazine published in August 2007, and it was a stroke of luck that led to this. I had seen Gauthier's watch in a European watch magazine and had always wanted to feature it, so when I visited Philippe Dufour's booth at Baselworld, I was surprised to find that Gauthier himself was there! Dufour immediately introduced me to his watch, and we had a brief interview on the spot. I used that as the basis for this article.

 The model introduced at the time was the "Prestige HM," a unique model built on Gauthier's original ideas and design. At the time, I described its features as follows: "The distinctive features of his watches are, first, the off-center design of the time display, which is offset from the central axis. Second, winding and setting of the hands are done with a large crown on the back of the case. The escapement is a free-sprung type without a regulator, and the rate is adjusted with four mass slots attached to the balance. Also, as befits a gear specialist, the gears are beautifully designed with hollowed-out edges like bicycle gear wheels. Furthermore, the slots for the small screws used in the movement are wavy, which distributes force evenly and prevents slippage."

The case is made of polished natural titanium, with smooth lines from the sides to the lugs, and is thin (12.9mm thick) in a classic design. Combined with the lightness of titanium, it feels light to wear and won't get caught on your shirt cuffs.

 Now, let's compare the Insight Micro-Rotor Natural Titanium, which I am in charge of, with the original model. Even now, 15 years later, the two models share surprisingly similar features: an off-center dial, free-sprung mechanism, beautifully shaped gears, and wavy slots for the machine screws.

 On the other hand, the differences from the early models include "the mainspring winding and hand setting are done with the crown at the 2 o'clock position on the case" and "micro-rotor automatic winding."

 Of course, the current model, "Prestige HMS," which inherits the early model, has inherited the features of hand-winding and a large crown on the back, etc. However, the fact that the mechanical features and image have remained consistent from the first model to the present is a testament to the correctness of Romain Gauthier's direction and the reliability of the mechanism.

One of the main features of this model is the deep blue dial, crafted using Grand Feu enamel, a technique known as cloisonné, fired at high temperatures. The closer you look, the more you'll appreciate its richness of expression. The indexes and scales are printed in chrome, making them very clear.

 So how does it feel when you actually wear it? The checklist presented by the Chronos Japan editorial team included the rattle of the crown and the feel of its operation, but I didn't notice any particular issues. The rotor operation is also virtually silent, with no annoying noise. Watching its smooth movement from the dial is a delightful experience.

 The finish of the case and bracelet is not at all rough, and the case itself is thin with a classic design, so it doesn't interfere with the cuffs of your shirt and you can enjoy a light and comfortable fit. Naturally, the details are beautifully finished, making this a model that you will feel joy in owning.

 However, legibility may not be that great. However, since the time is displayed on an off-center subdial, it is clear that the watch was not designed to ensure the best legibility under all conditions. Of course, the deep blue Grand Feu enamel dial, combined with the clear chrome-plated Roman numeral indexes and 18K white gold hands, means that the time can be read easily even in strong light.

 Furthermore, I personally don't like the balance wheel placed on the dial surface, and if it is to be placed on the surface, I would like it to be larger.

 Also, the crown is located at the 2 o'clock position on the case, but for ease of use, it would be best to position it around 4 o'clock. I think the greatest appeal of the Roman Gautier is the beautiful design and finish of the gears. If possible, I think the Gautier's appeal would be further enhanced if the watch were designed so that these beautiful gears could be seen from the dial side.

As the model name "Insight Micro-Rotor" suggests, it is equipped with a 22K gold micro-rotor, which has a high specific gravity and excellent winding efficiency. However, while a normal micro-rotor is embedded in the movement, the rotor of this movement is sandwiched between bridges on both the dial side and the back side, which seems to provide excellent stability in operation.

 In particular, the gear design on the back, which consists of small, connected round rings, has a beauty that is reminiscent of the chainwheels made by René Herse, a Parisian manufacturer once known as the king of French handmade bicycles. That's why I like to view the Insight Micro-Rotor from the case back.

 In fact, this has always been a mystery to me about Romain Gauthier's watches. What on earth inspired these unique gears? Perhaps they were inspired by the chainwheels of old bicycles? I would like to ask him directly about this.

The most eye-catching feature of a Romain Gauthier watch is the uniquely designed gears in the movement. Since Mr. Gauthier himself was originally an engineer at a company that manufactured gears for luxury watches, I feel that a particular amount of effort has been put into the design and finishing of this part. Therefore, I personally think that the beauty and appeal of these gears should be more prominently displayed.


Contact info: Swiss Prime Brands Tel. 03-6226-4650


[Comic] The craftsmanship and cutting-edge technology of Roman Gautier, a beloved disciple of Philippe Dufour

http://www.webchronos.net/comic/25774/
Roman Gauthier explains why micro-maisons are so popular right now

http://www.webchronos.net/features/83243/
[Video] A watch with a chain?! A double-speed video of the fusee-and-chain mechanism in Romain Gauthier's "Logical One"

http://www.webchronos.net/features/47577/