Chopard "LUC Lunar One" Wear Review: "A must-have perpetual calendar for enthusiasts"

Chopard's Caliber LUC 96.01-L is a masterpiece of automatic movement. The LUC Lunar One adds a perpetual calendar to the already existing model. While it had previously existed, its bold design has been refined and it has been transformed into a more usable watch. With a usable package and an excellent movement, this watch has some weaknesses, but it's one of the must-have perpetual calendars for any enthusiast.

"LUC Luna One" Impression Items

1. Case
Is the crown easy to pull and turn?: Yes
Is there any play on the left and right when you pull out the crown?

2. Bracelet & Strap
Is the buckle easy to remove? : △
Is the bracelet loose, the strap bend, and the hole pitch appropriate?

3. Dial, hands, and crystal
When exposed to a strong light source, do the indexes and hands sink into the dial? Yes
Isn't the clearance between the dial and the hands too large?

4. Movement
Is the needle setting smooth?: Yes
Is the sound of the rotors rotating unpleasant? : △

Daily wear test results (dynamic accuracy)

Accuracy test using a rate measuring device (static accuracy)

A perpetual calendar for connoisseurs based on the classic LUC 96.01-L

　What are the pinnacles of automatic movement? I always list three: Patek Philippe's Caliber 27-460, Audemars Piguet's 2120 series (Vacheron Constantin's 1120 series), and Chopard's LUC96-01-L. The latter two are still around today, and I'm more drawn to the LUC96-01-L as a movement. This movement, better known as the LUC1-96 than the LUC96-01-L, is a rare example of an automatic movement that incorporates aesthetic appeal. Furthermore, its automatic movement employs an intricate ratchet comparable to that of the Caliber 27-460.

　I chose the LUC Luna One because of its base movement, the LUC96-01-L. I doubt we'll see another automatic with such refinement released in the future. The LUC96-01-L is nothing short of a masterpiece, but from my experience, previous models had weak winding. This is to be expected, given the small rotor and heavy automatic winding mechanism. However, I didn't feel dissatisfied with the winding of this particular watch. In fact, this is probably its true performance. Also, the hand jump when setting the hands, a weakness of the 96 series, was well-controlled, though not completely. Learning the tricks to preventing hand jump is a given when working with classic cars. Once you get used to it, it's tolerable.

　The accuracy lives up to the 96 series name. Dynamic accuracy was -1 second per day for the T24 and +3 seconds per day for the T48. Considering the small balance and instantaneous change perpetual calendar, this is quite impressive.

　The movement's finishing remains very good. The fine circular graining under the rotor and the thick chamfering are perhaps the best among mass-produced automatic watches. However, because the basic design is old, the rotor noise is not very quiet.

　The 43mm diameter case has a cylindrical shape typical of Chopard. I would have preferred the case middle to be a little narrower, but perhaps this is to emphasize its individuality. The stripes on the sides are vertical, not horizontal. This is likely a way to highlight the cylindrical case, which is difficult to characterize, but horizontal rather than vertical stripes would make the case appear thinner. The head is a little heavy, but the strap, lined with natural alligator leather, is soft and not a problem if fastened tightly. The three-fold buckle is insufficient in terms of capacity compared to the head, but it didn't get in the way of desk work. However, frequent removal is difficult. I'm not a fan of stepped hands, but the contrast in thickness allows them to be turned with the weaker torque of the 96 series, and the subdials are much easier to read. These hands are clearly suited to this watch.

　What always impresses me about Chopard is the lack of play around the crown. When a 33mm diameter movement is placed in a 43mm diameter case, there is a slight play around the crown. However, as you would expect from a company that excels in case manufacturing, the play is well-controlled. The polishing of the case has also improved dramatically over the past 10 years, as they have increasingly used cutting techniques.

　LUC has continued to experiment with design, and over the past decade, thick Roman numerals have become the standard. At the same time, the calendar display has been maximized, making it easy to read. The red color used for the leap year display was also unnoticeable. Incidentally, the two subdials are offset from the 3-9 o'clock position because they were designed to be mounted on a Chrono One. However, as a result, the big date at 12 o'clock is not large.

　What caught my eye about this watch was the big date display. It switches instantly and is easy to read, but the processing of the window frame indicates that it is a model released more than 10 years ago. As you can see in the photo, there is a slight distortion, likely due to the press-finishing process. If this processing were replaced with cutting and the inside were made into a frame, the big date would surely stand out even more. It's a shame, as the three subdials, which are finished by cutting, are excellent. Furthermore, if the precision of the printing were improved even further, the cohesiveness of the watch would surely be further emphasized.

　Although it has some minor weaknesses, as you'd expect from a Chopard flagship, this model leaves no stone unturned. It winds well, has excellent portability, and the calendar changes precisely, with no time restrictions. It's far more practical than many perpetual calendar modules. The thin case and well-made strap also make it comfortable to wear. Considering that it's based on the masterpiece LUC96-01-L, the price is also reasonable. If you're a fan of the 96 series at least, the LUC Lunar One is worth considering, and I definitely recommend it. Being a fan, I can't help it.