N'onaka is a bistro that opened this fall, where you can enjoy classic French cuisine. Yasuyuki Nonaka, who has trained at famous restaurants both in Japan and abroad, will treat you to dishes that are tailored to your needs.
Photographs by Yu Mitamura
[Article published in the July 2023 issue of Kronos Japan]

This game dish uses green-necked ducks air-shipped from France, evoking the coming of winter. After filleting, the duck is cooked in a frying pan to infuse the aromas of thyme and bay leaves. For the sauce, white wine and cognac are added to the innards, and liver is added to thicken the sauce. Crushed bones are then added and the dish is strained. This is a classic French recipe that uses every last bit of the ingredients. Half a duck costs from 6500 yen.
People-centered cuisine born from dialogue
Born in Yame City, Fukuoka Prefecture in 1987. After graduating from a vocational school, he trained at Restaurant PACHON in Daikanyama, where he became sous chef. He then traveled to France and honed his skills at Michel Guérard and Paul Bocuse. After returning to Japan, he served as head chef at LE COMPTOIR OCCITAN in Daikanyama, before opening his own restaurant, N'onaka, in 2022.
When you hear "classic French," you might imagine a formal restaurant, but N'onaka is a place that embodies freedom.
"We hope that our restaurant will be as user-friendly as a local bistro, allowing you to spend a happy time here," says owner and chef Yasuyuki Nonaka. At N'onaka, the menu is decided through conversation with guests, in addition to the a la carte menu provided. First, ingredients such as meat and fish are selected, and then the cooking method and sauce are combined. Guests can communicate their mood and preferences for the day, pair the dish with the wine they would like to drink, and discuss portion sizes based on their stomach size.
For example, if you reminisce about something you ate in the XX region of France, it may be brought to you depending on the ingredients of the day.
If you want to taste the current season, how about the "Green Neck Duck with Salmi Sauce"? If you sit at the counter, you can watch the vivid process of the duck being prepared, and the aroma wafting through the air will make you want to drink wine. When you take a bite, you will be impressed not only by the way the ingredients are cooked, but also by the excellence of the sauce. It is truly gentle. But gentle does not mean it is bland; it has a rich, nutritious flavor that also makes it a great wine lover. "I'm a big drinker myself," says Nonaka with a laugh. His personality is just as captivating as his food.
"Human relationships are the most important thing. Through conversation, you can get to know a person's personality and understand their food preferences." This is the kind of philosophy the chef has, so even if you're visiting for the first time, you'll feel strangely comfortable and have the illusion that you've been to the restaurant many times. Nonaka pays more attention to people than to the food. And his feelings are projected onto the plate.
Nowadays, many restaurants in Tokyo offer only omakase courses, starting at a set time. Of course, this is also a wonderful way to enjoy food. However, we must not forget the freedom to order what we want and the joy of building relationships where requests that are not on the menu can be accommodated. Being "selfish" about food is a driving force for both chefs and diners to seek out even more delicious food.
Nʼonaka

2-8-11 Nishi-Azabu, Minato-ku, Tokyo
Nishiazabu Building 1F Tel. 03-6421-0825
Irregular holidays 16:00-23:00 (LO 22:00)
Appetizers from 1200 yen, soup from 1000 yen, fish dishes from 2000 yen, meat dishes from 2100 yen (service charge included)
Seat fee: 1000 yen per person (mineral water included)

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