The latest addition to Bell & Ross' skull family is the BR 01 Cyber Skull Bronze. This limited edition model inherits the innovative, surfaced design of its predecessor, the BR 01 Cyber Skull, and features a bronze case with numerous improvements. It's so rare that it's only available in Japan at two Bell & Ross boutiques and three Oomiya stores.
Text by Kouki Doi
Article published on June 2023, 2
Bell & Ross skull watches
The BR 01 Cyber Skull Bronze introduced here is the latest addition to Bell & Ross' skull family. The skull motif, which leaves a strong impression on the viewer, has been incorporated into 10 models to date as a "timeless symbol."
Skulls may evoke the image of death and may intuitively evoke a sense of fear, but skulls have also been imbued with various messages since ancient times. The meaning of the skeleton has changed over the ages, sometimes representing strength or war, and in the world of art, they have been depicted as a motif that shows the fragility of human life and the closeness of death.
Bell & Ross first incorporated the skull motif into their watch designs in 2009. The BR 01 Skull, an addition to the iconic BR 01 series with its eye-catching massive square case, made a big impact when it was released. While many brands now release skull-motif watches, Bell & Ross was one of the pioneers.
First released in 2009, this is the first model in the Skull family, limited to 500 pieces worldwide, and had a major impact on other brands. The all-black exterior with PVD coating was innovative even at the time.
(Center) BR 01 Skull Bronze
First released in 2015, this model retains the original BR 01 Skull design but is limited to 500 pieces worldwide, with a bronze case. Once the patina that develops over time covers the case, it will look like a completely different piece.
(Right) BR 01 Laughing Skull
First released in 2018, this is the first Skull family watch to feature the company's own hand-wound movement, the BR-Caliber 206, and the gimmick of moving the lower jaw is also reflected in the latest model.
Since then, the Skull family has continued to evolve, incorporating new ideas. The BR 01 Skull Bronze, released in 2015, was the first skull watch to be made of bronze, a material also used in the latest models. It evokes the aging of the material and its affinity with humans, whose beauty deepens with age.
In 2018, the mechanical aspects were also tweaked. This ambitious piece features a hand-wound movement developed in-house to match the shape of the skull's face, and is the brand's first automaton. As the crown is turned to wind the mainspring, the jaw moves up and down, creating a realistic, open-mouthed smile that can be perceived as both eerie and humorous.
First released in 2020. While featuring the large BR 01 case, this timepiece features a futuristic design never before seen. It also features a moving lower jaw. Manual winding (BR-CAL.206). 21 jewels. 28,800 vph. Black ceramic case (45mm x 46.5mm, 13.7mm thick). 50m water resistant. Limited to 500 pieces worldwide.
A major turning point in design came in 2020. The BR 01 Cyber Skull was a departure from the rounded, realistic skulls of the past, and instead incorporated a futuristic design, as the name "Cyber" suggests.
The black ceramic case and skull face are composed of surfaces, evoking the image of a cutting-edge stealth fighter. Taking advantage of the shape of the BR-Caliber 206, which was first used in the BR 01 Laughing Skull, and the square case of the BR 01, the movement and the entire face are fixed at all four corners with bone-shaped bridges, giving the movement and face a floating feel.
The latest addition to the Skull family, featuring a bronze case that is resistant to oxidation
The latest addition to the Skull family, the BR-01 Cyber Skull Bronze, was unveiled in 2023 as the second generation of the BR-01 Cyber Skull. Don't think of it as just a different color; it has been improved in many ways. We'd like to take a look at some of the subtle changes.
Purchase at any of the three Oomiya stores and receive a complimentary brown calfskin strap. Manual-wound (BR-CAL.210). 21 jewels. 28,800 vph. Bronze case (45mm x 46.7mm, 13.7mm thick). Water resistant to 50m. Limited to 500 pieces worldwide. Sold exclusively at Bell & Ross Ginza and Shinsaibashi boutiques, and Oomiya Shinsaibashi, Kyoto, and Sendai stores. Price: 1,617,000 yen (tax included).
First of all, the case is made of bronze, but at first glance it appears to be 18K yellow gold in color. This is achieved by mixing copper with aluminum, which gives it a lighter color and slows down the rate at which it ages due to oxidation. This is the brand's third model, following the introduction of the BR V2-94 Belly Tanker Bronze, a limited edition of 999 pieces worldwide, in 2019.
The case, case back, crown, and buckle are all made of bronze. Because it oxidizes less than regular copper, you'll notice a gradual change in color. Only the owner who has owned the BR 01 Cyber Skull Bronze for a long time will be able to see it develop a patinated, subdued color.
The most eye-catching feature is the skull face. The faceted shape is inherited from the previous model, and the brass base is coated to match the bright bronze color of the case. The biggest change in design is the skull's "eyes." While both eyes of the previous model were dyed black, the left eye of this model features the brand logo "&" in a circle, and the right eye is pierced, revealing gears.
The movement has also been modified. It is equipped with the BR-Caliber 210, a skeletonized version of the BR-Caliber 206. The skull-shaped baseplate, top bridge, barrel, ratchet wheel, and other parts have been hollowed out, making it easier to view the mechanism from both the front and back.
