The new BR 05 collection, which joined Bell & Ross' BR series in 2019, features a three-dimensional bezel and an integrated bracelet case, making it a modern sports watch that blends in with more urban outfits. This time, I'd like to review the Japan-exclusive BR 05 GMT AMBER, a BR 05 equipped with a GMT function, from the perspective of someone with a watch fetish for exteriors. The more I use it, the more I can feel the skill of Bruno Bellamich, a founding member of Bell & Ross, in this watch.
Text & Photographs & Illustrations by Naoto Watanabe
Article published on June 2023, 2
Automatic movement (Cal. BA325). 28,800 vph. Power reserve: approximately 42 hours. Stainless steel (diameter 41mm, thickness 11.07mm). Water resistant to 100m. Limited to 99 pieces in Japan. Price: 682,000 yen (tax included).
What's different and what hasn't changed in the BR series
When you hear the words "Porsche 911," what comes to mind?
Car enthusiasts might answer, "It's a rear-wheel-drive sports car with a horizontally opposed six-cylinder engine mounted at the rear," but even those who aren't particularly interested in cars will likely remember the unique silhouette with its low-slung hood and high, round headlights.
This is the design identity that the Porsche 911 has maintained for nearly 60 years, and it is also the reason why a Porsche is recognizable as a Porsche even without the brand logo.
There are several similar examples in the world of watches, but Bell & Ross' BR series is also one of the most widely recognized products, despite its relatively short history, with its basic design of a square case with screws fastened at all four corners and a round dial with Arabic numerals only at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock.
This series, which was introduced in 2005, has captivated many watch enthusiasts with its unique design, featuring a distinctive square case based on an aviation instrument motif and the aforementioned military-inspired dial.
However, this design identity is a very tricky thing; if the constraints are too loose, it will not lead to the inheritance of the image, and conversely, if the constraints are too strict, it will hinder the product's development potential.
The aforementioned Porsche 911 also has a defined silhouette, so it is not difficult to imagine that successive designers have struggled with each renewal. However, the Bell & Ross BR series is also a watch whose extremely distinctive design makes it difficult to make large-scale design changes while retaining its image.
However, when creating the BR 05 collection, the brand's co-founder and creative director, Bruno Belamich, took the design elements of the original BR series and gave it a completely new look.
A modern, evolved design without compromising its identity
First, the bezel, which is fastened with screws at all four corners, has been repositioned toward the dial and the corner radius has been widened, giving it a softer appearance. In addition, a wide C-chamfer has been applied to the outer periphery, giving the entire watch a three-dimensional appearance.
Additionally, the Arabic numerals and bars on the dial, which had previously been painted with luminous paint, were replaced with rounded, applied shapes, softening the military feel of the previous BR series and transforming the dial into one with an urban image.
Personally, I would have preferred to see the Arabic numerals at 3 o'clock and a discreet date window at 4:30, like the BR 03, but if it's intended to be used as a daily watch, the visibility of the date cannot be sacrificed.
Furthermore, in this model, the wide, vertical bezel on the outer periphery of the dial, which was slightly elongated in the "BR 05," has been fitted with a sloping 24-hour ring, making the width of the bezel less noticeable and giving it a more luxurious feel.
Even for a sports watch, a faceplate that is too wide can inevitably look cheap, so this is a very appealing arrangement.
The case has also changed from the traditional square to a more octagonal shape, with the corners of the bezel being tapered to accommodate the wider radius, and it is seamlessly connected to the bracelet-integrated lugs, giving the overall silhouette an impression of what is known as luxury sports (hereafter referred to as ragspo) style.
Of course, this change in impression is not solely due to the design, but Bellamy's skill in transforming the watch into a completely different one while retaining most of the design elements of the first model in the series, the BR 01, can only be described as impressive.
High-quality exterior finish that accentuates the design
Another factor that highlights the luxury sporty feel of this watch is its high-quality exterior finish. What surprised me in particular was the quality of the bracelet. All of the hairline and mirror-finished links are perfectly flat, so even when viewed under flat light, there is no distortion in the luster whatsoever.
In addition, the hairlines on each frame are straight and continuous, with no discontinuities in direction. The depth of the hairlines can cause your fingertips to feel a bit like they're catching, which is a matter of personal preference, but I found it to be within acceptable limits.
There are many luxury sports watches available these days, but it's rare to come across a bracelet with such a flat and highly precise finish.
The only thing I find disappointing is that the texture of the hairline is different between the bracelet and the case lugs. This may be because they are made by different suppliers, but the bracelet is so good that I wish the finish was more consistent.
Even when you look at the dial, which is a unique feature of the Japan-exclusive model, you can see that the details have been finished with great care.
The date disc, made in the same color as the amber dial, has a matte finish on the surface and features thick, three-dimensional numbers printed in black on top.
In addition, the BR 05 saw the shape of the hour and minute hands changed from the previous oversized rosette hands to mirror-polished Genta hands so that they matched the design of the indexes.
In the older BR series, this was an area where roughness was noticeable, but there are no burrs to be found, and the quality has definitely improved.
The GMT hand on the global model of the BR 05 GMT was painted red at the tip, but this time it has been redesigned to be all black. This gives it a more chic impression, but because the black paint is thick, it can look cute and plump depending on how the light hits it.
Turning to the case back, the automatic caliber BR-CAL.325 can be seen through the see-through back.
The base movement is Sellita's Cal. SW330, but it is equipped with a uniquely designed 360-degree skeleton rotor and is plated in a dark tone, giving it a unique appearance even though it is a general-purpose ebauche.
