10 Pilot's Watches to Inspire You to Fly [IWC, Breitling, Breguet, and More]

Pilot watches are instruments used to safely fly aircraft, and are characterized by their excellent performance and mechanical appearance. By learning about the birth of pilot watches, their history, and their representative aviation functions, you will become even more captivated by their appeal. We will explore the appeal of pilot watches by introducing historical masterpieces and current recommended models.

Pilot's watches: a testament to mankind's continued challenges in the skies

Pilot's watches have been flying alongside pilots ever since they first appeared in history. Let's explore the history and appeal of pilot's watches, which have progressed alongside the development of aviation technology.

What are the standards for pilot watches?

Diver's watches, which are classified as professional watches, are strictly defined by ISO and JIS standards.

On the other hand, there are no clear standards for pilot watches, which are also professional watches, depending on the brand. If a brand says that a model is a pilot watch, then that model may be a pilot watch.

Even when looking at the most famous models from the past, they all share common general characteristics, such as airtight cases and anti-reflective coated crystals, but the details are different. The definition of pilot watches changes with interpretation and the times.

In the midst of this, a new standard for German pilot watches, DIN8330, was announced as part of the German Industrial Standards in 2016, based on TESTAF, which was created in 2012 at the suggestion of German watch manufacturer Sinn. However, even if this standard becomes widespread, it will still be a while before it becomes widespread.

The History of Aviation Technology and Pilot's Watches

The first pilot's watch in history was the Santos, produced by Cartier at the request of Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont. Three years after the American Wright Brothers achieved the first powered flight in mankind in 1903, the Santos successfully completed Europe's first powered flight in Paris.

Pilot watches evolved rapidly in line with the development of aviation after World War I. The Lindbergh Hour Angle watch, produced by Longines in 1931, was inspired by Charles A. Lindbergh, who achieved the first solo, non-stop flight across the Atlantic.

Masterpieces that continue to this day were produced after that, such as the IWC Special Pilot's Watch, released in 1936, and the Breitling Chronomat, released in 1942.

The Breguet Type XX was originally developed for military use, while the Breitling Navitimer, released after World War II, and the Rolex GMT-Master, released in 1954, were equipped with a second time zone display function and were immensely popular with airline pilots.

As chronograph movements transitioned from manual winding to automatic winding, pilot watches also moved towards perfection. In 1985, Breitling introduced quartz movements in the Aerospace, and today both automatic and quartz movements are the mainstream mechanisms for pilot watches.

The allure of pilot watches

Pilots need to quickly grasp the information on their watches while flying, so pilot watches are equipped with various features to improve visibility, such as large hands and indexes and fluorescent coatings.

Another feature of pilot watches is their excellent durability, which protects their high accuracy. They are shock-resistant, pressure-resistant, and magnetic-resistant, and are designed to withstand all the stresses that pilots and their aircraft experience during flight.

It's also important to note the various unique functions that support flight, such as the rotating bezel and rotating slide rule, which can be used as a substitute for the cockpit instruments in the unlikely event that they malfunction.

A pilot's watch that continues the legacy of historic masterpieces

In the history of pilot's watches, various models have been born that have left their mark on watchmaking history. We will introduce the current pilot's watches that continue the lineage of these masterpieces.

Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 46

Breitling's Navitimer, which was introduced in 1962, has a history of being a favorite among aviation enthusiasts and captains of the time. The current lineup includes a variety of models, making it a long-selling model that represents the brand.

The Navitimer B01 Chronograph 46 is equipped with a rotating slide rule that can perform calculations necessary for flight, and the COSC-certified in-house chronograph movement, Cal. 01. This movement is also the brand's flagship movement, which has been in use since its introduction in 2009 and has been continuously improved since then.

As mentioned above, the Navitimer is available in a wide variety of models, with a wide range of variations in materials, size, functions, and dial color. This model features a large case with a diameter of 46mm. The refreshing blue dial gives a sophisticated impression to the design, which has a strong tool watch feel.

Longines "Longines Avigation Big Eye"

Longines is a brand that has been manufacturing many pilot watches and aviation instruments since ancient times, including the Lindbergh Hour Angle Watch. They still produce high-quality pilot watches today, and the Longines Avigation Big Eye shown here is one of them.

This watch is inspired by the pilot's watch manufactured by Longines in the 1930s. It is named "Big Eye" because of the large 30-minute counter at the 3 o'clock position. There is a small seconds at the 9 o'clock position and a 12-hour counter at the 6 o'clock position.

The key point is that it does not have a small window for displaying the calendar, and by using large hour and minute hands and indexes, it has extremely high readability, giving it a look that is very tool-like.

The movement used is the Cal. L688, which was developed exclusively for Longines and is based on ETA's Valgrange A08.L01. It has a power reserve of approximately 66 hours, making it a highly practical watch.

In addition, the case back of this watch features an airplane surrounded by a sunburst pattern, making it a special piece that allows you to enjoy the sense of exclusivity that comes with owning a pilot's watch.

Rolex GMT-Master II

The predecessor, the GMT-Master, which was released in 1955, is a watch that has become synonymous with GMT watches. It is also known for being used in the Concorde test flights.

The GMT-Master II is a follow-up series released in 1982 with a completely new movement. It features a GMT hand that rotates once every 24 hours, allowing the time in two time zones to be read simultaneously.

Another appealing feature of the GMT-Master II is its sophisticated design. This Ref. 126711CHNR features a black-brown Cerachrom bezel insert that eliminates any ruggedness and gives it a luxurious feel.

The Oyster bracelet features three rows of links with a gorgeous Everose gold centre piece.

IWC Pilot's Watch Mark XX

IWC is a leading player in the modern pilot's watch market. The current collection in the Mark series, which inherits the lineage of the "Special Pilot's Watch," is the "Mark XX," which was released in 2022.

Although it has a standard diameter of 40mm, it has a thickness of just 10.8mm, giving it an elegant impression. The luminous paint on the dial makes it easy to read in the dark.

The triangle mark and Arabic numerals at 12 o'clock are a traditional design that has been passed down through the Mark series, and indeed all pilot watches. The Mark XX is also available in different colors and with bracelets, so you can choose the one that best suits your taste.

Pilot's watches with attractive bracelets

Choosing a pilot's watch that matches your outfit is one way to go. Check out these three models with attractive bracelets that complement casual fashion.

Breguet Type 20 2057

The new "Type XX" was released in 2023. It is a Breguet pilot's watch series based on the military "Type 20," which was ordered by the French Air Force in 1954 and produced between 1955 and 1959, and the "Type XX," a civilian version of the Type 20.

The original Type XX was notable for its flyback chronograph function, as this was an important feature for the military watches required by the French Air Force at the time. The third-generation Type XX, which has been released as part of Breguet's regular collection since 1995, was equipped with a Lemania movement modified for flyback operation, but the newer generation is equipped with the Caliber 728 chronograph movement, which is more specifically designed for flyback operation.

When it was released in 2023, it was only available as a strap model. The lineup is now expanding, with this bracelet model being added in 2024.

The current collection is broadly divided into the "Type 20," a reproduction of the military model, and the "Type XX," a reproduction of the civilian model.

Breitling "Breitling Chronomat B01 42"

Along with the Navitimer, the Chronomat collection is one of Breitling's most iconic collections. The name originally appeared in Breitling's history in 1942, when the first model was the world's first wristwatch equipped with a circular slide rule. Later, in 1984, the Chronomat was resurrected on the market by giving the name to a model developed with advice from the Italian Air Force's acrobatic team, the Frecce Tricolori.

Despite its long history, the Chronomat is no longer limited to pilot watches in the brand's collection. It is now classified as an all-purpose sports watch that can be used anywhere, including in the air, on the sea, and on land.

However, the Chronomat's historical background, excellent legibility, and robust exterior make it an ideal pilot's watch. Its design, inherited from the original model, including rider tabs that allow pilots to easily operate the bezel even while wearing gloves, and the Rouleaux bracelet, are sure to be a draw for men fascinated by the history of pilot's watches.

Although this piece has a heavy appearance, it is made of lightweight titanium, so it is comfortable to wear.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II

We will also introduce a model from Rolex's GMT-Master II that features a distinctive metal bracelet. This model features a Cerachrom bezel with a distinctive blue and black color scheme.

The in-house Cal. 3285 movement is a highly accurate in-house movement that boasts a power reserve of approximately 70 hours, is shock-resistant, and maintains stability even in temperature changes.

The five-link Jubilee bracelet features Rolex's Easylink system, which allows the bracelet length to be easily adjusted by approximately 5 mm.

A chic pilot's watch with a leather strap

Models with leather straps are easy to create a luxurious look. They tone down the image of a mission watch slightly, but are easy to match with everyday outfits. They are recommended for those who want to create a chic look with a suit. Let's compare the three models below.

Hamilton "Khaki Aviation X-Wind Auto Chrono"

Hamilton is a brand that has been producing many pilot watches since 1918 during World War I. They offer a wide variety of models, including automatic and chronograph models.

The Khaki Aviation X-Wind Auto Chrono is the first model in the Khaki X-Wind series to feature a function that can calculate how much crosswinds will affect flight operations.

It also has a variety of other functions to support flying. It is not just classical, but also has a modern elegance, making it useful for everyday use.

Zenith "Pilot Big Date Flyback"

Zenith is another brand that has had close ties to the aviation industry. In 1888, Zenith registered the French word "PILOTE" as a trademark, and in 1904, it also registered the English word "PILOT," making it the only watch brand that can feature "PILOT" on its dial.

Zenith's pilot watch series has always adopted designs inspired by classic timepieces, but in 2023 the collection was revamped to include models with modern details while retaining the same excellent functionality.

The model shown is one of the models announced as part of the 2023 collection.

Though modern, the watch pays homage to the design codes Zenith broadly defined over a century ago, incorporating some of the earliest documented aviator watches and dashboard instruments.

The movement is Zenith's proud automatic chronograph movement, the El Primero 3652. The chronograph has a flyback function, so pilots can reset the chronograph seconds hand to zero and resume timekeeping with a single push, even while wearing gloves. Fans of mechanical watches will be delighted to see the movement through the transparent case back.

Jin "MODEL 156.1"

Sinn's pilot chronograph "156" has been updated in 2024 to the "156.1." This series originates from the "155," a "double-stop chronograph" sold in very limited quantities from 1980 to the early 1990s, and the 156 itself is its successor.

Previously, this series was equipped with a Lemania base movement, but the updated version now features Sinn's in-house movement, the Caliber SZ01, with the chronograph seconds and minutes counters located in the center. It also features a 12-hour counter at 6 o'clock, a small seconds at 9 o'clock, and a small date window at 3 o'clock. The 24-hour counter and day of the week display found in the 156 have been omitted. This movement has also been used in the 140.ST and EZM 10.

It's also worth noting that Sinn's special technology has been incorporated into this watch. The bezel is fixed to the case using a special coupling method, allowing it to rotate smoothly without coming loose. Furthermore, Tegiment Technology provides high scratch resistance, and combined with magnetic resistance of 4800 A/m in accordance with DIN 8309 and water resistance to 10 bar in accordance with DIN 8310, this watch will perform as well in harsh environments, not just in the sky.

Enjoy the romantic moments of flying into the sky with a pilot's watch

Pilot watches have evolved alongside the development of aviation technology, and are packed with features to protect the lives of pilots. Their mechanical appearance, reminiscent of a cockpit, is one element that embodies the sense of mission and pride of professionals active in a variety of fields.

Learn about the history of pilot watches, imagine the aspirations of humanity as they soar into the skies, and spend a romantic time soaring through the skies in your favorite pilot watch.