This is a hands-on review of the titanium case model of the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph, a new model just released in 2023. What unique qualities does the titanium exterior and light-powered quartz movement bring to this watch? We'll examine it from various angles.
This lightweight titanium case model is the second Solargraph model. The sandblasted exterior accentuates the rugged design, with a polar blue second hand. It features a light-powered quartz movement (Cal. TH50-00). Its titanium case (40mm diameter) is water resistant to 200m. It's priced at 368,500 yen (tax included).
Article published on June 2023, 3
A review of the unique Aquaracer, "Solargraph"
In 2021, TAG Heuer decided to renew its Aquaracer collection of diver's watches. The new model, the Aquaracer Professional 200, released that year, retained the iconic 12-sided bezel shape but added a scratch-resistant ceramic insert, and by reducing the thickness of the case and shortening the lugs, it was possible to achieve ease of handling suitable for desk work.
The following year, the company solidified the foundation of the collection by releasing the more stylish Aquaracer Professional 200 and the Aquaracer Professional 1000 Super Diver, which offered significantly improved water resistance.
The model we will be reviewing this time is the Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph, a variation of the Aquaracer Professional 200. As you might guess from the name "Solargraph," this model is equipped with a light-powered quartz movement manufactured by La Joux-Perret.
Unlike battery-powered quartz watches, even if the hands stop moving due to insufficient power, a solar-powered quartz watch will resume operation immediately if exposed to light for a short period of time. According to the specifications, just two minutes of exposure to bright sunlight can provide approximately one day's worth of power. This makes it a reliable watch for any situation, including those where it is difficult to change the battery.
The Solargraph will be released in a stainless steel case model in 2022 and a titanium case model in 2023. This time, we will be looking at the titanium case model, which was recently released.
The titanium exterior gives it a tough and stoic character
The first impression of this model is simply "rugged." The exterior, including the bezel, case back, and bracelet, is made of sandblasted Grade 2 titanium. There is no bezel insert; the scale is engraved directly into the bezel.
The Aquaracer Professional 300, released in 2021, featured a stainless steel case with a satin and polished finish and a ceramic bezel. Its appearance could be said to be a legitimate evolution of the Aquaracer, combining sportiness and elegance, but this titanium model is completely different, so much so that it is reminiscent of German military watches such as Sinn and Tutima.
However, the various design features, including the 12-sided bezel and the dial engraved with a horizontal pattern, clearly indicate that this model is a member of the Aquaracer collection.
A common criticism of diver's watches in general, not just those of a specific brand, is, "Isn't it similar to XX (a famous diver's watch)?"
They may indeed be similar, but a diver's watch is one of the tools that divers entrust their lives to. That's why standards such as ISO and JIS have been established, clearly stipulating the required functions and performance.
In terms of appearance, it would need to be coated with luminous paint, have 12 highly visible indexes, and have a mechanism for measuring elapsed time, such as a unidirectional rotating bezel.
Apart from the specifications, the crown needs to be enlarged to improve operability, and a crown guard may be installed to prevent the crown from breaking. The case will likely be satin-finished to make scratches less noticeable, and thicker to ensure high water resistance.
If we borrow the saying that form follows function, then the more stoically crafted a diver's watch is, the more it will naturally look similar. The important thing here is that there is a big difference between something that looks similar in the end and something that looks similar at a sideways glance.
So what about the Aquaracer? We'll go into more detail later, but its 12-sided bezel and horizontally patterned dial gave it a distinct personality, and it was more than just a design difference.
