2023 marks the 60th anniversary of the release of the Tag Heuer Carrera. The Tag Heuer Carrera, which was completely redesigned in this memorable year, has become a masterpiece with a great look, great content, and a great price. This is the center of attention this year.
Text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
Article published on June 2023, 4
The new Carrera is a trend-setting and vastly improved model.
The unexpected surprise at Watches & Wonders 2023 was the new TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre TH20-00 Chronograph. I had no expectations, but I was pleasantly surprised by the actual product.
The crystal is now larger, giving it a completely different look. The movement is also an improved version of the Caliber TH20-00. Honestly, I wonder what's happened to Tag Heuer.
One trend in watch design over the past few years has been domed crystals and short lugs. The raised crystal makes the case appear thinner, and the shorter overall length of the watch improves comfort.
Automatic movement (Cal. TH20-00). 33 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 80 hours. Stainless steel case (39mm diameter). Water resistant to 100m. Price: 935,000 yen (tax included).
Grand Seiko's "Birch", Omega's "De Ville", and although a little different, Audemars Piguet's "CODE 11.59 by Audemars Piguet" are also representative examples of this type of attempt.
The new Carrera takes this approach to crystals to the extreme. This model doesn't even have a bezel to hold the crystal in place, instead it's attached directly to the case. Carol Cazapi, technical director, says, "We chose this design to make the most of the distinctive outer ring of the dial."
The Carrera, released in 1963, had a "new" design that enlarged the outer edge of the dial and added indices to it, in order to make the dial cleaner and improve legibility.
The 2023 Carrera emphasizes this idea. By shaping the endpaper like a mountain and eliminating the bezel, the iconic endpaper is emphasized while retaining the original design.
What impressed me was the treatment of the crystal. According to Kazapi, "The crystal is fixed with a gasket, not UV adhesive." Some Tag Heuer watches from a generation ago had gaskets that were too noticeable, but this one is barely noticeable.
Even if the dome crystal is large, it can be a letdown if the gasket is too noticeable, but Carol Kazapi's team has handled it well. The reason this model has a clean impression is because the case and crystal are integrated.
The dial's structure is also interesting. By making the outer cover and the center separate parts, it has been possible to naturally create a three-dimensional effect. The indexes have also been diamond-cut to add a touch of luxury.
The reason why the surface is flat rather than curved is because it is curved outwards. The three-dimensional feel of the new work is the result of a series of such detailed treatments.
