A look at Tudor's new Black Bay 54! A diver that appeals to both nerds and regular people

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2023.04.07

Tudor

The new Black Bay 54, unveiled by Tudor at Watches & Wonders 2023, is the smallest diver's watch in the collection. This watch is more than just a retro watch; it's a truly sophisticated and practical piece that will appeal to watch enthusiasts.

ブラックベイ 54

Masamasa Hirota (Kronos Japan): Interview and writing
Text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
Article published on June 2023, 4

Retro design, modern details

　Tudor releases ambitious models every year. The highlight of 2023 is the Black Bay 54, which is available in an affordable size. With a diameter of 37mm and a thickness of 11.24mm, it is likely something many people have been waiting for. While the look is retro, the details are also modern, which is typical of Tudor today.

ブラックベイ 54

A compact diver's watch. It incorporates retro details, but what really stands out is the practical packaging. From what I can tell, the balance between the watch and the bracelet is excellent. Automatic movement (Cal. MT5400). 27 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 70 hours. Stainless steel (diameter 37mm, thickness 11.24mm). Water resistant to 200m. Price: 496,000 yen.

　Since introducing its own in-house movements in 2015, Tudor has steadily expanded its lineup. Currently, there are three main movements: the Caliber MT5202 (diameter 20mm, thickness 5.5mm), the Caliber MT5402 (diameter 26mm, thickness 5mm), and the Caliber MT5602/12 (diameter 31.8mm, thickness 6.5mm).

　The MT5402 and MT5602 are also available in the MT5400 (30.3mm diameter) and MT5621 (33.8mm diameter), which have larger baseplates and rotors, but these can be considered variations. Regardless, the three different sized automatic watches have rapidly expanded the Tudor collection.

　One of them is the Black Bay 54, a "small" diver's watch released in 2023.

ブラックベイ 54

This is the original 1954 Submariner (Ref. 7922). The 2023 Black Bay 54 retains this design code. The 6mm diameter crown is also the same. However, to align with the Black Bay's code, the hands have been changed to snowflake hands.