Cartier: The culmination of 20 years of experience as a watchmaker

2023.04.14

The Tank Française, which was born in 1996 and was the first to feature a metal bracelet integrated into the case, has been reborn this year with a major design update. Along with the revamped integrated design, the exterior has also undergone a dramatic evolution, showcasing the latest technology from Cartier Manufacture, which was established at the beginning of the 21st century.

Tank Française

Photographs by Eiichi Okuyama
Interview and text by Shigeru Sugawara
Edited by Tomoshige Kase
[Article published in the July 2023 issue of Kronos Japan]


The goal was to achieve a perfect fusion between the case and bracelet

[The essence of the manufacture]
1. Linked structure of the links ensures smooth movement
2. The perfect balance of satin and polish
3. Metallic texture of the Roman index

Tank Française

Tank Française
Available in stainless steel and 18KYG, and in three sizes: large (stainless steel only), medium, and small. (Right) Stainless steel large model (36.7mm x 30.5mm, 10.1mm thick). Water resistant for everyday use. Automatic (Cal. 1853). 25 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 37 hours. Synthetic cabochon-shaped spinel is used to decorate the crown. 775,500 yen (tax included). (Left) 18KYG medium model (32mm x 27mm, 7.1mm thick). Water resistant for everyday use. Quartz movement. Sapphire cabochon is used to decorate the crown. 3,471,600 yen (tax included).

 The Tank Française, released approximately 80 years after the original Tank in 1917, was the first model to feature an integrated bracelet. Its modern and sophisticated design, conceived as a bracelet watch, became popular around the world and was a favorite of celebrities.

 At first glance, the Tank Française, released this year, appears to have the same design as before, but in fact it has evolved so much that it could be said to be similar but not the same. The key to this evolution lies in the exterior. Cartier aimed to strengthen the unity between the case and bracelet, creating a new, total design in which the case itself becomes one of the links of the bracelet.

Tank Française

Development begins with drawing up the design. The new model emphasizes the continuity and aesthetics of the integrated design, and has been redesigned so that part of the crown fits into the case.

 The defining difference from the previous model is the shape of the links on both sides of the triple bracelet. Previously, the links were trapezoidal, corresponding to the diagonal lines at the four corners of the case, and there were gaps between them. The new bracelet reflects the diagonal lines, while the links are seamlessly connected. However, joining them in this way is not as easy as it sounds. So Cartier's developers completely redesigned the shape of the links, giving the connecting points rounded convex and concave shapes that allow them to move together in unison.

 Typically, links are designed with convex surfaces meeting each other to ensure smooth movement, but Cartier took on a more challenging shape. As the company describes it as "the most complex bracelet ever created by the Cartier Manufacture," the company says it spent approximately 460 hours perfecting the bracelet through digital simulations. The result is a seamless aesthetic, durability, and the flexibility essential for a comfortable fit.

Tank Française

This bracelet took an immense amount of time to perfect. (Left) Approximately 460 hours were spent on digital simulations based on the design, including the connection of the links and the smoothness of their movement. (Right) More than 100 parts were connected with pins, and then the sides of the links were processed to hide the connection points from the outside.

Tank Française

(Left) The assembled bracelet is subjected to mechanical vibration testing to test its durability. Approximately 340 hours of testing and analysis are required. (Right) Finally, a polishing craftsman meticulously applies a polished and satin finish by hand.

 The new three-link bracelet is made up of over 100 links. Rod-shaped pins are used to connect the links, but the process of completely removing any traces of embedded pins is standard for luxury bracelets. What further enhances the beauty is the exquisite combination of polished and satin finishes. The links in the central row of the three-link bracelet alternate between polished and satin finishes, creating a subtly elegant base that sparkles in different light, creating a subtle elegance.

 The metallic unity is also expressed on the dial, where the Tank's iconic Roman numerals are made three-dimensional out of metal and polished on the top of the numerals, giving the face a new impression.

 The new Tank Française is the culmination of the creativity and technique that Cartier Manufacture has poured into its exteriors in the 21st century.

Cartier Manufacture

Cartier Manufacture was established in 2001 in La Chaux-de-Fonds, one of the centers of the Swiss watch industry. Currently, the company's huge factory, boasting an area of ​​33,000 square meters, employs nearly 120 different types of workers, and is where everything from watch development to manufacturing takes place.



Contact info: Cartier Customer Service Center Tel. 0120-301-757


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