Watches & Wonders' 2023 trends: size and color are what you need to look out for!

48 manufacturers gathered at Watches & Wonders 2023. If you add in the surrounding trade shows, the number of participating manufacturers is likely to be in the hundreds. So, what are the trends seen there for 2023? There are three main trends: moving away from "luxury sports," smaller sizes, and bright colors. It can be said that this will be a year in which appearances will stand out more than what's inside.

Moving away from "luxury sports"

The so-called "luxury sports watch" has risen to the mainstream of the watch market since 2015. If you add models with sports watch-style cases and bracelets, the majority of the market now falls into this genre.

　In fact, Niels Eggerdin, managing director of Frederique Constant, told Chronos Japan that "80% of luxury watches over 3000 euros exported from Switzerland are stainless steel with bracelets."

　So, will luxury sports be going strong in 2023? As a genre, it seems as promising as ever. However, this year, the only new model that clearly identified itself as a luxury sports watch was IWC's Ingenieur. This model, with its thin case and well-made exterior, is a typical example of today's luxury sports watch.

　In addition, this model inherits the design of the legendary watch designer Gerald Genta. If anything, it may be the last of the long-awaited "luxury sports" models.

　Rather, what stood out in 2023 was the move away from luxury sports. Companies began releasing watches with bracelets that could withstand sports scenes, but many of them did not have the look of luxury sports. TAG Heuer's Carrera Calibre 7 is a model that symbolizes this trend.

Although it is not related to Watches & Wonders, Longines' "Spirit" can also be said to be a similar model. Rather than creating luxury sports watches, the trend of adding metal bracelets to basic models is sure to continue accelerating in the future.

　Instead of the "luxury sports" watches, basic watches stood out. Cartier, which had released well-made models with bracelets almost every year, made a complete turn this year by focusing on the more conventional Tank. Panerai also did the same with the Radiomir. Vacheron Constantin, which added variations to its hit Overseas, also emphasized retrograde movements.

　High-performance watches with bracelets will no doubt remain a market mainstream even after 2023. However, now that this genre has become a standard, the number of new releases is likely to be more modest than before. Furthermore, with the worsening economy, it is possible that luxury sports will become less popular in the high-price range.

Small size, short overall length

　What has become noticeable in recent years is the trend toward more compact watches. However, rather than simply making them smaller, the method of achieving this has become more ingenious. The diameter has been slightly reduced, but in exchange, the overall length of the watch has been significantly shortened. By shortening the watch, the wearing comfort has been improved.

　Omega was probably the first to try this. By shortening the bow tube, which was too long, the company was able to make its new models appear more compact. Furthermore, recently, attempts to shorten the lugs have become more prominent. The 2023 IWC Ingenieur has a lugless structure, but its overall length is only 45.7mm. While this is obviously short considering its 40mm diameter, the clever design makes it feel less short.

Rolex's new "Perpetual 1908" can also be seen as an attempt to shorten the watch. While the company has been increasing the size every year, in recent years it has been moving in the direction of reducing the size. Unlike the Oyster case, which is characterized by its long lugs, the new case emphasizes the shortness and lightness of the lugs. However, this model does not feel short because the lugs are skillfully handled.

Combined with the shortened lugs is the raised dome crystal. Raising the crystal reduces the height of the middle case, shortening the lugs. This detail is common to the Perpetual 1908, Grand Seiko's Tentagraph, TAG Heuer's new Carrera Caliber TH20-00 Chronograph, and Zenith's Pilot. While the lugs appear long when viewed head-on, they're actually not as long as their predecessors.

　The reason behind the popularity of this method is likely to be the balance between visibility and comfort. Rather than simply making the size smaller, they are shortening the overall length to improve comfort. In addition, considering that manufacturers will be focusing on genderless models that are unrelated to men and women in the future, the trend replacing smaller diameters will likely be shorter overall lengths.

　However, shortening the lugs requires design know-how, and it seems that only a few manufacturers are currently able to adopt this method.

Vivid colors!

　Since 2015, manufacturers have begun incorporating a variety of colors into their watch dials. This change is driven by new methods that replace plating and painting.

　In 2023, Patek Philippe created a vibrant blue finish using PVD. The company is skilled in both plating and painting, but in recent years has also begun to use PVD. While it is difficult to achieve the same vibrant color as plating or painting, the quality is relatively stable. Furthermore, because it does not require wastewater treatment, environmentally conscious companies will likely actively adopt it.

　In terms of color, Cartier and Rolex were eye-catching in 2023. The former had long been conservative with its dials, but in recent years has begun incorporating a variety of colors. In addition, they are also actively adopting new technologies, such as electrolytic etching for the dial patterns on some models.

　Rolex has chosen a new approach to painted dials. The balloon-themed Celebration dial features multiple colors transferred onto lacquer. The lacquer finish is clearly better than previous models, and despite being a transfer, the colors are less prominent. I have no idea how they did it, but it's certainly one of the most ambitious lacquer-based dials ever made.

　Not just for these manufacturers, but vibrant dials and unique base finishes are likely to remain major trends in the watch industry in 2023.

What stood out was the exterior innovation.

　Although it's a quick look, we've taken a broad look at the trends for 2023. What they all have in common is innovation in the exterior rather than the movement.

　Along with the watch boom, this trend can be seen as symbolic of the current trend of watches becoming more and more like accessories, and it could also be seen as a way to differentiate from smartwatches.Anyway, a detailed trend analysis will be published in the Japanese edition of Chronos, which will be released on June 3, 2023.