Audemars Piguet's latest creations expand in all directions, from complex models to basic models

2023.04.24

Audemars Piguet is now popular among people other than watch enthusiasts. Its latest model in 2023 further emphasizes the fusion of the interior and exterior.

Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT Large Date, CODE 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Starwheel, CODE 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Minute Repeater Supersonnerie

(Top) Royal Oak Concept Split-Second Chronograph GMT Large Date
This model is a symbol of Audemars Piguet today. Its angular design is complemented by a symmetrical openwork movement. The sense of unity between the interior and exterior, including the finish, is unparalleled. Automatic (Cal. 4407). 73 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 70 hours. Titanium case (43mm diameter, 17.4mm thick). Water resistant to 5 bar. Current market price.
(Right) CODE 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Starwheel
The CODE 11.59 features an extremely narrow bezel. It's only natural that it complements the large display. The star wheel, which first appeared in 1991, is back. The disc is made of aluminum to reduce weight. Automatic winding (Cal. 4310). 32 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 70 hours. 18K white gold and ceramic case (41mm diameter, 10.7mm thick). Water resistant to 3 bar. 715 million yen (tax included).
(Left) CODE 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Minute Repeater Supersonnerie
The Supersonnerie's volume and sound quality are not affected by the case material or design. For 2023, it features a unique 18KWG and ceramic combination case. It's light and practical. The masterpiece Cal. 2953 has impeccable finish. Manual winding. 32 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 72 hours. 18KWG case (41mm diameter, 13.6mm thick). Water resistant to 2 bar. Market price.
Photographs by Yu Mitamura
Text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
Edited by Yukiya Suzuki (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published in the July 2023 issue of Kronos Japan]


Audemars Piguet's new 2023 model aims to "combine interior and exterior"

 Following on from the movement, Audemars Piguet has now achieved in-house production of the exterior. While this is natural for a high-end manufacturer, what sets them apart from other companies is that they had a clear goal. Their goal was to achieve a high level of integration between the interior and exterior. The direction made clear with the CODE 11.59 by Audemars Piguet (hereinafter referred to as CODE 11.59) is further emphasized in the new 2023 models.

Cal. 2953

The Caliber 2953 that powers the "CODE 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Minute Repeater Supersonnerie" is one of the few repeater movements that still retains this classic design. The minutes are marked on the surrounding fringe, a style typical of the Vallée de Joux. There are many highlights, including deep hand-chamfered edges and fine circular graining.

 First up is the Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT Large Date. While the company had previously released a split-seconds chronograph, this one uses the in-house 4400 series movement. However, this base movement was packed with mechanisms and didn't have much space. Instead, the research and development team, led by Lucas Raggi, took the extraordinary step of expanding the rotor axis into a circle and adding a split-seconds chronograph wheel inside.

4400 series caliber

Theoretically, the in-house 4400 series caliber has little potential for expansion. By modifying the rotor to be peripheral, the Cal. 4407 is now able to incorporate a split-seconds chronograph wheel into the central space. The gears are made of nickel-phosphorus formed by LIGA. To avoid thickness, an isolator has been deliberately omitted.

 Rudge says, "This idea was adapted from the Universelle." Despite this, the movement is not thin, but by firmly fixing the chronograph axis, the hands are prevented from shaking. However, since the movement is 8.9mm thick, a thick "concept" case was adopted. In terms of the fusion of interior and exterior, this watch is comparable to the tourbillon of the CODE 11.59.

 My personal favorite is the newly added stainless steel version of the CODE 11.59. While it might seem like a simple change of material, the dial has been precisely pressed and the indices have been changed to standard bars. The hour and minute hands are also coated with "Genta-style" luminous paint. Additionally, the fringe around the dial edge has a textured surface. In stark contrast to the 18K gold version, which emphasized the thick lacquer, the stainless steel version exudes a lightness and airiness. The fabric strap also enhances this character.

CODE 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Chronograph

CODE 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Chronograph
A new stainless steel version has been added. The dial and hands have been given luminous paint, and the corners of the crown have been rounded. The subdued green dial is made of PVD. It is very light and easy to handle. Automatic winding (Cal. 4401). 40 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 70 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 41mm, thickness 12.6mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. Price: 4,345,000 yen (tax included).
CODE 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Automatic

CODE 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Automatic
This model features a combination stainless steel and ceramic case. The fringe around the dial has been smoothed and sharpened to give it a different look from existing models. The dial has a plated finish to bring out the delicate pattern. Automatic movement (Cal. 4302). 32 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 70 hours. Stainless steel and ceramic case (diameter 41mm, thickness 10.7mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. Price: 3,465,000 yen (tax included).

 However, Audemars Piguet has not made this into a run-of-the-mill casual watch. The sharp edges of the dial, combined with the mirror-finished indices, give this watch a more casual feel. The graining across the entire case is also intentionally kept subtle. If the strap were changed to alligator leather, it would be perfectly suitable for business settings.

 This same careful consideration can also be seen in the new 43mm Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph. Unlike the previous model, which focused on the ultimate design, this time the focus has been on ease of use. The design is almost the same as before, but the corners of the crown and crown guard have been rounded off, and the straps have been changed to an interchangeable type. The details are impressive, demonstrating the watch's appeal to avoid damaging shirt sleeves and to look great with a suit by simply changing the strap.

Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph

Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph
The 43mm model was completely redesigned for 2023. While retaining the same design, it has been revised to be more suitable for everyday use. The subdued edges make it comfortable to wear. This new model is perfect for those who are picky about watches. Automatic (Cal. 4401). 40 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 70 hours. 18K yellow gold and ceramic case (diameter 43mm, thickness 14.4mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. 748 million yen (tax included).

 The movement is the same as the Royal Oak, the latest 4400 series. This automatic movement, with a large free-sprung balance for improved precision and shock resistance, is also suitable for sports.

 The black ceramic chronograph model is another Offshore model that has been designed with a bold design in mind. The design is exactly the same as the original 1993 model. The angular crown guard and crown remain the same. Audemars Piguet today could have chosen to make them rounded. In fact, the feel of the watch is a matter of personal preference. However, the fact that the design was left unchanged and made possible using ceramic, which is difficult to process, is what gives the Audemars Piguet of today its distinctive character.

 To be honest, none of the new releases are cheap, but I guarantee you'll understand why once you try them out.

Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph

Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph
This new model replaces the Ref. 26238 released in 1993 with a ceramic exterior. The Petit Tapisserie pattern is also reproduced. The movement is the latest Cal. 4404. Considering the effort required for cutting, the price is understandable. Automatic winding. 40 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 70 hours. Ceramic case (diameter 42mm, thickness 15.3mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. 1045 million yen (tax included).



Contact info: Audemars Piguet Japan Tel. 03-6830-0000


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