[Top 5 New Watches of 2023] Look at the exterior rather than the mechanism! Masterpieces selected by Masamasa Hirota, Editor-in-Chief of Chronos Japan

Perhaps reflecting the booming watch industry, 48 manufacturers participated in Watches & Wonders 2023. The evolution of watch exteriors that has been progressing since 2015 finally feels complete this year. Five watches have been selected so far. All of them are well-made models. However, the watches I choose may change when the Japanese version of Chronos is released in June.

1st place: TAG Heuer "TAG Heuer Carrera Date"

　This is an ambitious piece that skillfully incorporates the current trend of short lugs and a domed crystal. Personally, I prefer the 36mm diameter Carrera Calibre 7, but this piece is the one to go for in terms of impact. I never expected a mass-production manufacturer like Tag Heuer to adopt a bezel-less case. While it may look retro at first glance, it's a truly 21st-century design.

　The watch also has great attention to detail, such as the inconspicuous crystal gasket. Previously, Tag Heuer models had variations in the claws, but this is now a thing of the past. The actual watch is far more attractive than the photos. Considering the contents, the price is also reasonable.

2. Tudor Black Bay 54

This extremely compact diver's watch measures just 37mm in diameter and 11mm thick. The deliberately rounded crystal gives it a retro feel that sets it apart from other models.

The weight balance between the watch and the bracelet is also excellent. Combined with the finely adjustable T-fit buckle, it should be comfortable to wear. While it may not be suitable for those who prefer heavy watches, its lightweight comfort is a major plus point of this watch.

　Considering the contents, the price is a bargain. However, it will be difficult to obtain. It is perfect not only for serious watch enthusiasts, but also for those looking for a mechanical watch that can be used on a daily basis.

3rd Place: Grand Seiko "Evolution 9 Collection Tentagraph"

　This chronograph makes full use of the masterpiece, the Caliber 9SA5. By modifying an existing chronograph, it achieves a finish worthy of Grand Seiko and even greater durability. The inclusion of clutches in all three counters is also a sensible design. While it is by no means a thin watch, the thickness of the middle case is kept down by making the faceplate thin and using a domed crystal.

　The lugs are also short, making the watch feel much lighter than it looks. This model, which is based on Grand Seiko design but also keeps current trends in mind, is a symbol of Grand Seiko's maturity. Personally, I like the dial, which has a deliberately minimal finish, as it gives it a chronograph-like feel.

4th place: Cartier "Tank Louis Cartier"

　The Tank Normale is ideal, but because it's a limited edition model, it's not realistic to get one. So I chose the basic Tank Louis Cartier. While it retains the design of the existing Tank, it plays around with the dial, as is typical of Cartier in recent years. It's a completely different watch compared to the old Cartier watches that only used silver dials with Roman numeral indexes.

　The in-house manufactured case has minimal distortion and well-defined corners. The lacquered dial is also of high quality. It probably wouldn't be your first choice, but I highly recommend it for those who own multiple watches. The caliber 1917MC is an improved version of Jaeger-LeCoultre's caliber 846. While it's not as connoisseur-oriented as the caliber 846, it is more practical.

5th place: A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Chronograph

　Limited to 100 pieces worldwide, it's a chronograph with a list price of over 2000 million yen. I chose it because the exterior and movement were unexpectedly well-made. The push buttons that allow you to operate the chronograph and adjust the date and day of the week depending on the position of the crown are one of a kind. Despite this, the operation is smooth.

　The movement also features a unique vertical clutch to allow for a compact size. This is the only chronograph that uses a lever to move the column wheel vertically, rather than horizontally. It's such a perfect model that it's a shame to make it a limited edition.

　It doesn't have the lightness of the Odysseus, but the balance between the watch and the bracelet is decent. It's suitable for everyday use. It's free, and the price isn't cheap.

General comment

　At Watches & Wonders 2023, we saw many watches that put more effort into their exteriors than their movements. The race to develop movements that was popular a few years ago seems to have died down, with the focus instead shifting to bracelets and dials. In particular, vibrant dials are likely to be a trend in 2023, following on from last year.

　All five of the watches featured here have impressive exteriors. Each model also fits comfortably and fits securely. It feels like a different era from 10 years ago, when new models were being released in a rush.