Many famous brands announced new products at Watches & Wonders 2023. From these, we asked watch professionals to select the top five. This time, the selection was made by SJX, Asia's leading watch journalist. With the exception of the top-placed FP Journe "FFC," the results were dominated by solid, practical watches.
1st place: FP Journe "FFC"
One of my top new releases isn't even an entirely new model (ed. note: a 2021 Only Watch model has become a regular model), but rather the FFC, a watch that displays time in a simple and original way, powered by an ingenious and complex movement.
The price of 82 CHF before tax may seem steep, even considering its complexity, but it speaks to the fact that FP Journe has elevated this watch to a level where the usual rules no longer apply, and in that world, the FFC is well worth it.
Automatic movement (Cal. FP Journe 1300.3). 63 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 120 hours. Pt case (diameter 42mm, thickness 10.70mm).
2. Tudor Black Bay 54
At just 37mm in diameter, the Black Bay 54 resembles a vintage Rolex Submariner, but with the undeniable quality of a modern Tudor.
This model was designed by enthusiasts with a keen eye for detail: for example, the shape of the crown and bezel are a perfect replica of vintage divers' watches.
Automatic (Cal. MT5400). 27 jewels. Power reserve approximately 70 hours. Stainless steel (diameter 37mm). Water resistant to 200m. 496,000 yen (tax included).
3rd Place: Patek Philippe Calatrava Travel Time 5224R
While it may look like a typical Calatrava from a distance, the Ref. 5224R is clearly different from other Calatravas. At 42mm in diameter, it's surprisingly large for a Calatrava, but at just under 9mm thick, it's a typical thin watch. What's even more unusual about this model is the convenient and sleek 24-hour display.
While the design may look modern, the Chronometro Gondolo retains its historical roots, but at $77,110, it's also quite pricey for a dual time zone watch.
Automatic movement (Cal. 31-260 PS FUS 24H). 44 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 48 hours. 18KRG case (diameter 42mm, thickness 9.85mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. Price: 7,711,000 yen (tax included).
4. Rolex Perpetual 1908
The biggest surprise at W&W was the Perpetual 1908, which could be considered the only "dress watch" currently offered by Rolex. After years of failing to offer formal watches, the Perpetual 1908 was Rolex's strongest proposal yet in this category.
The quality is typical of Rolex, but the design is a little too simple. Nevertheless, the Perpetual 1908 is an important watch that shows Rolex expanding its collection.
Automatic winding (Cal. 7140). 38 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 66 hours. 18K Yellow Gold (diameter 39mm, thickness 9.50mm). Water resistant to 50m. Price: 2,619,100 yen (tax included).
5th place: Kudoke "Kudoke 3"
The Kudoke 3 is a creation of an independent watchmaker, yet it's very affordable. It's a more eccentric watch than Kudoke's previous offerings, featuring a simple yet interesting time display that relies on a three-arm hour hand.
The finish and quality of this watch are unmistakably Kudoke watches, but its character is so different from their previous works that even those who own existing models will find it of great interest.
Manual winding (Cal. 1). 18 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 46 hours. 18KRG case (diameter 39mm, thickness 10.3mm). Water resistant to 50m.
