LUNA SEA frontman Ryuichi Kawamura possesses an extraordinary aesthetic sense not only as an artist, but also as a watch lover. His dedication to getting to the essence of things, regardless of price range or brand, goes beyond that of an ordinary watch lover. We asked him to choose his top five watches from the new releases announced at Watches & Wonders 2023. The watches he selected embody what Kawamura calls "the middle." Enjoy Kawamura's unique choices, along with his insightful comments.
・Patek Philippe "Grand Complication Ref. 5316"
The first watch chosen by Ryuichi Kawamura is the Ref. 5316, which combines a minute repeater with a tourbillon and a perpetual calendar with a retrograde date display hand. Not only is it a Patek Philippe "all-inclusive" watch, it's also a masterpiece with a transparent dial made of onyx embedded in sapphire crystal.
"I thought the Patek Philippe Ref. 5316 was the perfect model. Previous models had enamel dials, but the newer models have been changed to sapphire crystal with onyx on the dial. It inherits the lineage of the masterpiece Ref. 5016, but it has also taken on new challenges and updated itself. It was truly perfect with black enamel, but I take my hat off to their attitude of aiming even further into the future."
This masterpiece features a minute repeater, tourbillon, perpetual calendar with retrograde date display, and moon phase display. It's hand-wound (Cal. R TO 27 PS QR). It has 28 jewels and beats at 21,600 vph. It has a power reserve of approximately 48 hours. Its platinum case (40.2mm diameter, 13.23mm thick) is not waterproof. Price upon request.
・IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40
Kawamura looked at a variety of manufacturers and chose the Ingenieur, which has undergone a revival. Although basic, this model is also in the "middle" category as Kawamura puts it.
“Many manufacturers have released the Ragstar watches designed by Gerald Genta, but IWC hadn’t yet done one. But now, the Ingenieur has been reborn and is back.
However, rather than calling it a reproduction, I think it's more accurate to say that it's a faithful rebirth of the design that Gerald Genta completed in 76. I love all the dial colors. This is a watch released by a real watch manufacturer."
This multi-purpose watch is a clever revival of a classic design. It also features magnetic resistance of approximately 40,000 A/m. Automatic movement (Cal. 32111). 21 jewels. Power reserve of approximately 120 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 40mm, thickness 10.8mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. Price: 1,567,500 yen (tax included).
・Chopard "Alpine Eagle 41 XPS"
The combination of Alpine Eagle and LUC has attracted the attention of watch enthusiasts. Naturally, Kawamura has also included it in his selection.
"The model I chose this time is equipped with the LUC. This movement has a reputation that is resounding around the world. The only other micro-rotor movements that I've seen that are this beautiful despite their small rotor are the Cal. 240 used in the Nautilus and this one.
The balance of the bridges and other parts is great, and just watching the movement of the balance wheel is a joy. The bracelet is also unique, inheriting designs from the 1970s and 80s, but it's right up my alley.
For those who like bracelets with small links or even larger ones, this bracelet seems to say, 'That doesn't matter, just try it on your wrist and appreciate its flexibility.'"
This masterpiece features a movement that removes the date display from the Cal. LUC 96.01-L. Naturally, it comes with the Geneva Hallmark. Chopard's reputation as a "Jumbo" is well deserved. Automatic (Cal. LUC 96.40-L). 29 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 65 hours. Stainless steel case (41mm diameter, 8mm thick). Water resistant to 100m. Price: 3,168,000 yen (tax included).
