Watch writer Tetsuo Shinoda has selected his top five watches from Watches & Wonders 2023, where many famous brands announced new releases. Shinoda commented that this edition of Watches & Wonders was notable for its "normal evolution," and cited models that truly demonstrate this "normal evolution," such as Grand Seiko's "Evolution 9 Collection Tentagraph SLGC001," which turns the Caliber 9SA5 into a chronograph, and Chanel's "J12 Cybernetic," which further complicates the two-color ceramic combination seen in the "J12 Paradox."
1st Place: Grand Seiko "Evolution 9 Collection Tentagraph SLGC001"
The highly anticipated mechanical chronograph was unveiled at the second Watches & Wonders event, delighting GS fans around the world. It was quite moving to see it compete alongside the most prestigious Swiss watch brands.
Automatic movement (Cal. 9SC5). 60 jewels. 36,000 vph. Power reserve: approximately 72 hours. Bright titanium case (diameter 43.2mm, thickness 15.3mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. Price: 1,815,000 yen (tax included). Scheduled for release on June 9th.
2nd Place: IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40
The booth design, which made extensive use of the new Ingenieur visuals, was excellent, and the display was concise yet to the point. The model variations were three colors of stainless steel and one color of titanium. However, I personally prefer the black dial.
Automatic movement (Cal. 32111). 21 jewels. Power reserve: approximately 120 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 40mm, thickness 10.8mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. Price: 1,628,000 yen (tax included).
3rd place: Chanel "J12 Cybernetic"
The technique of combining white and black ceramics was already established with the "J12 Paradox," but this model's dot pattern makes it even more complex. How is it made? This is a watch that makes you want to know the technology behind it.
Automatic (Cal. 12.1). 28 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 70 hours. Black and white ceramic and stainless steel (diameter 38mm, thickness 12.6mm). Water resistant to 50m. Limited quantity. 2,013,000 yen (tax included).
4th place: A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Chronograph
While retaining the design of the two push buttons used to operate the calendar, it has been updated as a chronograph. I was impressed by the simple and logical function of pressing the buttons while the crown is pulled in to operate the calendar.
Automatic movement (Cal. L156.1 DATOMATIC). 52 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 50 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 42.5mm, thickness 14.2mm). Water resistant to 12 bar. Limited to 100 pieces worldwide. Price upon request.
5. Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona
Not only is it equipped with a new movement, but the big news is that only the platinum model with a sky blue dial has a see-through case back. I'm grateful for the opportunity to see Rolex's in-house movement!
Automatic movement (Cal. 4131). 47 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 72 hours. Pt case (diameter 40mm, thickness 11.9mm). Water resistant to 100m. Price upon request.
