The Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic, released by Bvlgari in 2019, is a model that combines the thinness and lightness that are the core of the collection. To begin with, it is difficult to even create an automatic chronograph, but this one is extremely thin and has a serious design. This watch is fun to look at and fun to touch, and is a watch that is full of Bvlgari's seriousness.
Text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
Article published on December 30, 2023
Being able to produce in-house automatic chronographs is proof of being a top-class manufacturer
Bvlgari has been breaking world records with its ultra-thin Octo Finissimo watch, but they never expected to make a chronograph.
This is because chronographs are extremely difficult to design and manufacture. Even if you can design it, it doesn't necessarily mean you can make the parts, and even if you can assemble the parts, it doesn't necessarily mean that it will work. In other words, an integrated chronograph can only be made by a top-tier manufacturer with comprehensive capabilities.
But Bvlgari not only made their own Grosgraf, but also made it ultra-thin. In my opinion, it is much more difficult to make a thin chronograph than a thin tourbillon.
First released in 2019. The model pictured has a ceramic case limited to 200 pieces worldwide. It boasts practicality without even noticing its thinness at 6.5mm. Visible at 3 o'clock is the GMT function, which can be operated with the push button at 9 o'clock. Automatic winding (Cal. BVL318). 37 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 55 hours. Ceramic (diameter 43mm, thickness 6.5mm). Water resistant to 30m. Priced at 2,904,000 yen (tax included).
A solid chronograph built on the classics
Regardless of the model, Bvlgari's Octo Finissimo watches share a similar design: by expanding the movement, the components are distributed horizontally rather than vertically. This is a common design for most modern in-house movements, regardless of manufacturer, but Bvlgari seems to be the most aggressive in this regard.
However, adding a chronograph to the design suddenly becomes more difficult. The levers, springs, and other components must be stacked vertically. Bulgari, however, has managed to achieve a surprisingly slim movement, measuring just 3.3mm thick, with the case measuring just 6.5mm.
The chronograph clutch is a classic horizontal clutch. A Bvlgari representative said, "A vertical clutch would have increased the thickness, so we had no choice but to use a classic horizontal clutch." A typical horizontal clutch has a lever fixed with a screw to the bridge, which acts as the roof of the movement. In contrast, this model uses a tricky design in which part of the clutch is supported by being inserted under the bridge.
It has a surprisingly simple structure, basically just hooking it on, but there's absolutely no need to worry about operation. The start/stop and reset buttons feel so solid you wouldn't think it was a thin chronograph. This chronograph may be unique in that it can be used without feeling like it's thin.
In addition, the thickness of the movement has been reduced by shifting the position of the second wheel that drives the hour and minute hands from the center. Normally, if the second wheel is not in the center, the hands tend to jump when adjusting the time. However, this model does not skip hands at all. This may seem obvious, but it is a testament to the maturity of the manufacturer.
