Hublot returns to its roots and reinvents materials

Hublot will have a strong presence at Watches & Wonders Geneva, just as it did at Baselworld. Despite its incredibly prolific output, the company's momentum lies in its constant improvement in quality and in its inclusion of interesting new ventures. For 2023, the brand will return to its roots, "The Art of Fusion." However, the brand has introduced a completely new way of showcasing sapphire crystal and carbon fiber.

New ways to display sapphire crystal and carbon

　Hublot, which unveiled new products at LVHM Watch Week, also unveiled more at the following W&WG in March. With so many new products, it can be hard to pinpoint Hublot's direction, but this year they once again focused on materials.

Visible from the 6 o'clock position on the dial is the two-axis tourbillon. One axis rotates every 60 seconds, and the other every 30 seconds. While this consumes a fair amount of torque, it theoretically provides a power reserve of approximately four days. As the photo shows, the grade 5 titanium case is also highly polished.

The Caliber HUB6200 seen from the back. To accommodate the two-axis tourbillon, part of the sapphire crystal case back is raised. It is molded as a single piece. This detail gives a sense of Hublot's current technological prowess. The chamfering is done by hand, but it would be even better if the angle of the bevel was emphasized.

　However, perhaps the company was able to clarify its direction because the nature of each collection had been established. The Classic Fusion strengthened its position as a unique dress watch, while the Big Bang, which now features an integrated bracelet, emphasized its sportiness even more. The Square Bang was released to appeal to a new demographic different from the existing Big Bang, and the company also perfected a skeleton tourbillon with a micro-rotor as an excellent platform for complicated watches. Looking at the new releases for 2023, the company has developed a variety of materials based on these foundations.

The Cal.HUB6035 movement is a micro-rotor tourbillon with a symmetrical design. Its high scalability as a material makes it understandable why Hublot prefers to use it. In this model, the baseplate is cut out with a geometric pattern to match the Texalium surface.

The Big Bang Integrated is an integrated watch with a bracelet. However, thanks to the use of carbon fiber, the head weighs just 42g, and the bracelet weighs just 26g. Hublot has acquired a carbon fiber manufacturer to process the carbon fiber.

　One example of this is carbon fiber. While other companies have distanced themselves from this material, Hublot has added carbon fiber models to the Big Bang Unico, Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon, and Unico Golf. Moreover, they use different patterns, including carbon fiber with a unique pattern and carbon fiber layered with Texalium. Perhaps the use of carbon fiber in models with golf counters is intended to emphasize the sporty nature of the Big Bang.

Big Bang Unico Carbon Sky Blue
Perhaps due to the popularity of the 2022 Japan-limited edition "Big Bang Unico Carbon White," this year's Japan-limited edition features a matte sky blue carbon finish with a sky blue composite finish. Despite the mix of blue and black, the color is excellent. Automatic movement (Cal. HUB1280). 43 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 72 hours. Carbon case (44mm diameter). Water resistant to 10 bar. Limited to 100 pieces in Japan. Price: 3,443,000 yen (tax included).

The unique pattern is achieved by infusing a non-woven microfiber fabric into carbon fiber using epoxy resin, then sintering it in a special mold to create the original pattern. Hublot says, "Each piece looks different, making each one a one-of-a-kind timepiece."

　The company, which calls itself the "leading expert in crystal watches," has also introduced more sapphire crystal cases than in previous years. The highlight this year is the Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Full Blue Sapphire, which is entirely covered in blue sapphire crystal. Perhaps the reason they chose to use it on the bracelet as well is because they are confident in their processing technology. Titanium sleeves are hammered into the bracelet joints, and pins that connect the links are pressed into them. However, perhaps because the processing is extremely difficult, only 10 pieces are available.

　Hublot has also introduced sapphire to the new Square Bang. Despite the sandwich-like construction of multiple sapphire crystals, the waterproof gasket built into the case is not noticeable, a testament to Hublot's expertise in working with this material.

Square Bang Unico Sapphire
This full sapphire crystal model joins the hit Square Bang collection. The lightweight sapphire case is a perfect fit for the small Square Bang. At first glance, it may seem out of place, but paired with the aged Unico, it's highly practical. Automatic (Cal. HUB1280). 43 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 72 hours. Sapphire crystal case (42mm diameter, 15.4mm thick). Water resistant to 5 bar. Limited to 250 pieces worldwide. Price: 12,133,000 yen (tax included).

The full sapphire crystal seen from the back. What's surprising is that the screws are fastened to the sapphire parts. You might think that there are some plastic parts mixed in, but it turns out that they're all made of sapphire. It's possible to fasten the screws by hammering in a metal sleeve, but it requires a lot of know-how.

　The one that really impressed me was the Square Bang Black Magic. The entire exterior is covered in black ceramic, but because it's short and light, it looks highly practical. While they play around with materials, they've done a great job of keeping it within the character of the Square Bang.

　The same can be said for the Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski Full Titanium. To avoid interfering with the dress watch feel of the black polished lacquer dial, not only is the polygonal case polished, but the crown and push buttons are also rounded. While the three-dimensional Big Bang is a different story, this understated design is appropriate for the thin and light Classic Fusion.

Square Bang Unico Black Magic
This model is what personally attracted me. The combination of lightweight ceramic material and a small, relatively thin square band case makes it suitable for practical use. It's a watch that can also be used for business, but the prominent mirror-finished edges add a touch of luxury. Automatic movement (Cal. HUB1280). 43 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 72 hours. Black ceramic case (diameter 42mm, thickness 14.7mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. Price: 3,366,000 yen (tax included).

Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski Full Titanium
A new addition to the Orlinski line is a titanium-cased chronograph. While the design itself is the same as the existing three-hand model, the flatter dial and rounded pushers give it versatility that transcends the boundaries of a designer watch. Automatic movement (Cal. HUB1153). 35 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 42 hours. Ti case (diameter 41mm, thickness 12mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. Limited to 250 pieces worldwide. Price: 2,332,000 yen (tax included).

　What I felt again with this new model was the excellent quality of the micro-rotor tourbillon caliber HUB6035. Despite being a complication designed for a skeletonized watch, its versatility, which suits any material or color, is quite unparalleled. It's this level of thoughtful design that shows Hublot's current strength.

Big Bang Unico Golf Sky Blue Carbon
Since its launch, the Big Bang Unico Golf, featuring a golf counter, has only used a carbon case. While the counter makes it quite large, it weighs only about 98g. The counter's operation feels refined. Automatic (Cal. HUB1580). 43 jewels. Power reserve of approximately 72 hours. Carbon fiber and Texalium case (45mm diameter, 18.1mm thick). Water resistant to 10 bar. Limited to 100 pieces worldwide. Price: 4,169,000 yen (tax included).

Following the orange carbon fiber case in 2022, this year's case is blue Texalium. This material, made by impregnating aluminum with resin, is highly scratch-resistant, so it makes sense to cover the case in carbon fiber. The case is molded in-house, so the processing precision is also high.

Big Bang Unico High Jewelry
This new model features a total of 324 baguette-cut precious and semi-precious stones adorning the entire case. The basic design is the same as previous Rainbow models, but perhaps to make the stones stand out, the small seconds hand has been skeletonized and the dial is gray. Automatic (Cal. HUB1280). 43 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 72 hours. 18K King Gold case (44mm diameter). Water resistant to 10 bar. Price: 51,227,000 yen (tax included).

The Big Bang Unico High Jewelry, seen from the side, features ruby, pink sapphire, amethyst, blue sapphire, blue topaz, tsavorite, yellow sapphire, and orange sapphire. Given its popularity, it's no surprise that it's being updated.