Moritz Grossmann: The Authentic Japan Limited Lineage (Part 1)

The potential of local limited brands that leverage the strengths of small maisons

　The new Moritz Grossmann headquarters sits on a steep slope across a stream running alongside the German National Railway's Glashütte Station. The former site of the Urofa workshop is now equipped with modern workshop facilities capable of handling almost all movement manufacturing, where exceptionally skilled artisans create handmade German luxury watches. The company's goal is to produce a maximum of 1000 watches per year. However, when Moritz Grossmann first arrived in Japan in 2015, its annual production capacity was around 200 watches. At its peak, this number increased to around 400 watches. However, due to the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic and rising infrastructure costs following the invasion of Ukraine, production has shrunk to around 300 watches by 2022. Moritz Grossmann has now become one of those brands that are difficult to obtain immediately, even if you desire it.

　Considering the balance of annual production volume relative to the catalog model lineup, Moritz Grossmann's watchmaking can be described as a high-mix, extremely limited production model. This unique characteristic of a small maison makes it easy to create limited editions tailored to local market tastes. Looking at models made for Middle Eastern markets like Dubai, you can find pieces like desert-inspired models that make you wonder, "Is this really a Moritz Grossmann?" Conversely, this means that Moritz Grossmann's character in the Japanese market has consistently maintained an authentic impression. The "Japan Limited" series, launched in 2015, has strongly driven this image. Starting with the removal of the accent red from the brand logo, and then adding a small second hand, it has finally culminated in worldwide models like the "Venu 37" and "Cornerstone." The Japan Limited and Retailer Limited series have come to symbolize the essence of Moritz Grossmann in Japan. Let's take a look at the full picture.

[2015. 11] Venu Japan Limited

　When the Japanese subsidiary was established in June 2014, Moritz Grossmann's main product lines consisted of the Benu, equipped with the Caliber 100.0, and the Atum (now Index), equipped with the Caliber 100.1. Of these, the Benu (limited to 100 pieces worldwide), first released in 2010, has already been discontinued, and all remaining stock in the home country was delivered to Japan, but it also quickly sold out. The Japanese side requested additional production of the Benu, but for some reason this was not possible.

　In fact, due to production costs, it was not possible to produce additional watches at the same price as the first batch of 100. Therefore, a "Japan Limited" model was planned, eliminating the red accent color that was part of the brand logo. An additional 15 watches of each type were produced, with both the 18KWG and 18KRG cases priced at 10 yen more than the regular model. This single-color logo has been used for all Japan Limited models since then.

The case back is engraved with "LIMITED 15." At the time, the only "Benue face" model with an Arabic index dial was the first-generation model equipped with the Cal. 100.0 movement, and by redesigning the watch as a special model exclusive to Japan, it became possible to produce an additional 30 units.

The single-color logo for the Japan Limited model does away with the red accents used on the regular model. This was a last resort to allow for additional production, which included raising the selling price, but it ended up emphasizing a more authentic feel.

[2016.03] Tefnut Japan Limited

　The Tefnut was released in 2015 as Moritz Grossmann's first small-diameter, thin model. The original came in two sizes, 36mm and 39mm, both of which were planned as two-hand dress watches, but the Tefnut Japan Limited, released the following year in 2016, was reworked into a three-hand thin model. While using the same 36mm case, a small seconds hand was added to the fourth wheel (actually the sixth wheel, as the base movement, Cal. 102.0, has a special gear train that adds a second pinion).

　The newly designed dial features a newly designed Roman numerals that match the Arabic font used for the Benu. In addition to the 18KRG case shown in the photo, there was also an 18KWG case (price at the time: 290 million yen, excluding tax), and a total of 30 pieces were produced. In the second half of 16, the Tefnut 36, which had the same dial but with Arabic numerals, was added to the worldwide model lineup.

The dial is newly produced with three hands. The small second hand is set quite low, and the dial is carved deeply to compensate. The newly designed Roman indexes have similarities with the Benu typeface in the way the serifs are placed.

Cal. 102.0 was designed by Norwiet Windecker, who was employed at Moritz Grossmann at the time. The second pinion was placed in the center to prevent the gear train from protruding from the linearly designed 3/5 plate. Therefore, the second hand is actually attached to wheel number 6.

[2016.11] Venu Pure Japan Limited

　Since its founding, Moritz Grossmann has set an annual production limit of approximately 1000 pieces. However, this was merely a target, and as of 2015, annual production was only around 200 pieces. Therefore, the Atum Pure (2016), equipped with the Cal. 201.0 movement, was developed with a more standard finish in mind, while still being a mechanically perfect watch. This movement, with its flat balance-head design, featured a new movable balance-head stud. The finish on the baseplate and bridges, achieved through ultra-low-pressure sandblasting, is reminiscent of the 19th-century Glashütte standard.

　The Japan-exclusive "Venu Pure," released in November of the same year, reproduces the original design while introducing the company's first black dial. This military-inspired look is an "homage to old Longines," inspired by the movement's finish. The dial material is also different from the regular Pure, being made of pure silver instead of brass.

The stainless steel case was previously only used in the "Pure Series" (all of which are now discontinued) for standard models. The Benu Pure features polished case sides and satin-finished lug tops and bezel. The hour and minute hands use HiCeram hands, the same as those used in precious metal models.

The "Pure Movement" is characterized by a blast finish, in which 50-micron glass pearls are sprayed at extremely low pressure. However, the Benu Pure also features the same finishing touches as higher-end models, such as the "Sonenschrift" decoration on the ratchet wheel and black polishing on the crown wheel.

［2017. 05］Atum Enamel Japan Limited

　The Atum Enamel was released as a limited edition worldwide in March 2017. This model, crafted in pure white Grand Feu by the renowned Donze Cadrans, retained the lancet hands from the Atum, with the indices in a traditional Roman font. The Atum Enamel Japan Limited, released in May of the same year, eliminated the counterweight on the minute hand (though there were a few exceptions due to customer orders) and was custom-made in a special color.

Of the three Donze Cadrans enamel dials that are thought to have been produced around the same time, the "cream enamel" has the deepest tone. It was originally one of the prototypes fired for an ivory order, but this was also adopted for the production version.

The stepped balance cock features hand-engraved floral patterns. At its base is a fine-adjustment device said to have been invented by Moritz Grossmann in London in the 19th century. The Japan-exclusive Atum Enamel is equipped with a blue-dyed balance spring.

　The 18K White Gold case is finished in ivory enamel, while the 18K Gold case is finished in a deeper cream enamel, likely inspired by Patek Philippe's Ref. 2526, commonly known as Tropical. A very small batch of around 10 prototypes was produced, with seven of each becoming production models. Due to the unprecedented color, the dial's smoothness is not as good as the white enamel of the limited edition, but the unique yuzu skin finish adds to the atmosphere.

"Ivory enamel" is somewhere between white and cream. It has a slightly cloudy milky white impression, which is closer to the original order. The seconds track combined with the railway has been changed from the Arabic in the world limited edition to a full bar.

The details on the two-thirds plate are a concentrated expression of Moritz Grossmann's signature style. There are many highlights, including the wide "Bandschlif" (Glashütte stripe), raised gold chatons, and unique white sapphire bearing stones.

The manufacturing process of an enamel dial

　This is the manufacturing process for Grand Feu enamel at the renowned pottery Donze Cadrans. The photos show the most common white enamel, but there is not much difference when it comes to custom-made cream or ivory colors. However, when firing large quantities of white enamel at the same time, a huge mortar is used to even out the granularity of the glaze, which tends to result in a relatively smooth surface after firing. Of course, differences in experience with the color being fired, and therefore differences in experience with the properties of the glaze itself, will also have a major impact.

　Because Donze Cadrans uses traditional copper plates for its dial ébauches, the dials are highly wavy immediately after firing at high temperatures. Even when the surface is smoothed with charcoal, the unique yuzu-hade texture remains on the dial surface. When Donze Cadrans produces enamel dials in a single color, the surface is not polished, so the texture that is created during the cooling process from high-temperature firing remains intact on the surface.

Two worldwide models realized from suggestions from the Japanese market

　Jens Schneider, the first chief designer, was the driving force behind the individuality of the new Moritz Grossmann. The last movement he worked on during his tenure was Cal. 102.1 for the second-generation Tefnut. Compared to the delicate beauty of the original Cal. 102.0, the specifications of the second-generation movement were truly simple and robust. It was truly a character that could be called "Kleine Grossmann." Soon after the Cal. 102.1 was announced in 2017, a new Japan Limited project was launched. The idea was to actually produce a "small Benu" and a "small Atum."

　This plan was changed to a worldwide model during development, and was officially announced the following year as the "Venu 37" and "Atum 37." However, for a limited time, orders from Japan only were able to order skeleton hands (pictured) that were an adaptation of those used on the "Tefnut Sleeping Beauty." The "Cornerstone," announced in 2019, also began as a request from the Japanese market.

[2020. 07] Cornerstone Japan Limited

　Cornerstone, equipped with a square movement, was the first new development requested by Japan. The project began at the end of 2016, and after two years of development, it was unveiled at the Japan Roadshow in March 2019.

　The Japan Limited, based on the Japanese-origin rectangular model, was completed in July of the following year. The extremely limited number of three pieces is due to the use of a steel case that was prototyped during the development of the original model. Of course, it is extremely unusual for a prototype to be used in a production version, and Japan staff said, "It was an order that we didn't expect to get anywhere." The dial is white enamel, also made by Donze Cadrans, with subdued blue lettering. To match this, the tempered hands are also baked to a perfect blued steel finish. All three completed pieces were sold exclusively in boutiques.

The white enamel is made by Donze Cadrans, the same as the limited edition (25 pieces each) released at the same time as the first release in 2019. However, the brown indexes have all been changed to blue. To match this, the tempered hands have also been changed to a blued steel finish.

The three watches, which are now available exclusively at boutiques, come with an optional Milanese bracelet. This is an aftermarket product from Pforzheim that was procured by the boutique staff. The buckle has a link structure for fitting.

[2021. 07] Venue 37 Japan Limited

　The silver friction dial featured on the "XII Birthday Edition" (2020 / limited to 12 pieces worldwide) commemorating the 12th anniversary of the founding of Moritz Grossmann (Grossmann Uhren GmbH) is a dial crafted by an experienced craftsman living near Glashütte, using the "silver polishing" technique, which involves rubbing silver powder onto a brass base, a technique often used on clocks from the 18th and 19th centuries.

　Japan Staff, enthralled by this style, immediately approached them about planning a Japan Limited edition. They secured only seven of the steel cases of the Benu 37 (eight were made with enamel dials) that had been specially ordered by Wei Ko, founder of REVOLUTION and THE RAKE magazines, and modified them with a matte finish. Four of these were completed as Japan Limited editions, featuring the vintage hands that have become familiar from models such as the Power Reserve Vintage.

Silver Friction is created by rubbing silver particles into a lightly roughened brass base. By pouring black synthetic pigment into the hand-engraved indexes and scales, the pigment repels the silver particles in only those areas. The matte finish on the surface is created during the firing process.

To match the "vintage logo" engraved on the dial, the Moritz Grossmann name on the movement bridge has also been changed to cursive. Since this engraving is hand-engraved, it appears that the specifications could be changed.

[2022. 02] Central Second Japan Limited

　The "Central Seconds" (first released in 2021) is equipped with the classic indirect center seconds movement, Cal. 100.11. The Japan Limited model based on this was announced in February 2022. Until then, Central Seconds models had often been offered with colorful dials, but this model makes a complete departure, adopting Arabic numerals on a matte black background. Looking at the face alone, it looks like a sibling model of the "Venue Pure" released in 2016, but this model emphasizes a simpler taste by applying a brushed finish to the entire steel case.

　On the other hand, the movement finish is the same as before (the Pure was discontinued at this point), so the appearance on the case back is suddenly more mellow. The mechanism itself is also quite excellent, and the position of the third wheel has been changed to place it coaxially in order to place the starting wheel in the correct position. Furthermore, a special roller is placed at the base of the second pinion, and the regulation spring is aligned with its groove.

The matte black dial is extremely rare for Moritz Grossmann, and the steel hands are inlaid with Hiseram. As an aside, in recent years Moritz Grossmann has changed the material of the hands from the stainless steel used in the early days to carbon steel.

Like the "Venue 37 Japan Limited," the case has a "matte finish" with satin brushing applied to the entire surface. As it was released in 22, a year when production volume was at its lowest due to the impact of the COVID-3 pandemic, only three pieces were produced, and all were sold in boutiques.