NOMOS Glashütte/Tangent Part 3

Since its release in 1992, the Tangente has become an icon of German watchmaking. The combination of simple design and an excellent movement has given this model an astonishingly long lifespan. So how was NOMOS, which had only just been founded, able to create a masterpiece like the Tangente? And why did NOMOS decide to transform itself into a manufacture? Let's unravel the origins of the NOMOS brand and its astonishing evolution through the history of its signature model, the Tangente.

TANGENTE NEOMATIC
Classic size with automatic winding

　NOMOS completed its first automatic watch, the Epsilon, in 2005. The design of layering an automatic winding mechanism on a thin manual winding was extremely clever, but to compensate for the weak winding, the Epsilon's rotor had to be large and heavy. This was because the automatic winding mechanism used a switching rocker, which is highly durable but has a large dead angle. As a result, the Epsilon's diameter was 31mm and its thickness was 4.3mm. In response, NOMOS began developing an entirely new automatic movement, releasing the slim automatic DUW 3001 in 15. It is 28.8mm in diameter and 3.2mm thick. It was first used in the Tangente Neomatik 1st Edition in 15. It became a standard feature the following year.

Nomos has come to emphasize shape and color. The Tangente is no exception, and color variations are added almost every year. The dial of this model is midnight blue with a lacquer finish. On top of that, silver and sky blue printing is applied. The silver printing is prone to vibration around the edges, but the quality is relatively good.

The two-piece structure remains the same as before, but the polish of the case has improved, as can be seen from the reflection of the crown.

　The reason the movement, which is larger and thicker than a manual-winding watch, was able to be kept roughly the same size was due to a new case structure. The case structure used in the Tangente Sport, in which the movement's inner frame is held in place by an O-ring, not only improves shock resistance but also contributes to making the case thinner. If the Tangente case had used the same type of case back where the inner frame is held in place by a spring, it is likely that the Tangente case would not have been able to support the heavy automatic movement.

　The details have also been significantly improved: the look remains the same, but the lugs have been shortened to improve handling, and the polishing of the case and the overall quality of the finish have also been improved compared to previous models.

　The Tangente has been a NOMOS icon for over 30 years. Its automatic version, the Neomatik, may at first glance seem like a mere change of heart. However, the Tangente Neomatik, with its sophisticated in-house movement, embodies NOMOS' maturity as a watchmaker.

The case is filled to the brim with the neomatik movement, Cal. DUW 3001. The automatic winding mechanism has been changed from a switching rocker to a standard reverser, and by embedding it within the movement, it has become 1mm thinner than the Epsilon. What's interesting is the way it is fixed. As with the previous Tangente Sport, the frame that supports the movement is held down by the case back via a rubber O-ring. It's hard to see, but it's a point that gives you a sense of NOMOS' evolution.

The angular lugs are a distinctive feature of the Tangente. As the photo shows, the tips are rounded.