The Oyster Perpetual Datejust is a watch that has the qualities to become the benchmark for practical wristwatches. Its birth and maturation process clearly demonstrate Rolex's approach to its products, which is to carefully mature each mechanism. This article traces the evolution of the Datejust to its final form, including a report from the movement workshop completed in Bienne in 2012.
[Serialization No. 13 / First published in the July 2013 issue of Chronos Japan]
OYSTER PERPETUAL DATEJUST [Ref.1601]
A masterpiece of the 60s that defined styling
Ref. 1601 from 1960. Black dial typical of Rolexes of this era. Nearly original, including the crown and reverser. Seeing it in person, it's easy to understand why the Ref. 1601 was a success. Well-organized and flawless. Automatic (Cal. 1565). 26 jewels. 18,000 vph. Power reserve approximately 44 hours. Stainless steel x 18K yellow gold (also available in stainless steel x 14K yellow gold, 36mm diameter). Water resistant to 30m. Private collection.
The Ref. 1601, which was produced from the late 1950s until 77, brought great success to the Datejust. It was equipped with the caliber 1565 (which was produced until 65) and its improved version, the 1575 (known as the 1570, but the correct name is 1575). Its high precision and stability further enhanced the name of Rolex.
Since the first model, the Ref. 4464, in 1945, Rolex has been increasing the diameter of the Datejust movement. The original model's caliber 740 was 10.5 lignes. However, the caliber 1065, introduced in the mid-1950s, was 11.5 lignes. The reason for this increase was likely to accommodate the inclusion of a bidirectional automatic winding system (requiring two reversers) and an instantaneous date advance mechanism. However, perhaps dissatisfied with its performance, Rolex expanded the diameter to 12.5 lignes a few years later. This resulted in the caliber 1530, and the caliber 1565, which added a date display and certified it as a chronometer. Rolex then increased the movement's frequency to 19,800 vph, evolving it into the caliber 1575 (1965). It's no exaggeration to say that the Datejust movement was perfected at this point.
Rolex production volume soared in the 1960s. This was largely due to the strong sales of the Datejust, but this was also due to the excellence of the caliber 1565/1575 that it was equipped with. As if to prove this, many Datejusts from this era still exist, boasting accuracy that rivals that of current models.
As we have repeatedly stated in this magazine, the latest Rolex is always the best. However, the Datejust of this era combines the comfort of an antique watch with the practicality of modern models.
OYSTER PERPETUAL DATEJUST 36 [Ref.116234]
The current Datejust continues the tradition
Released in 2005. Compared to the previous model, Ref. 16234, it features a case with thicker lugs, a bracelet with less play, and a concealed clasp. The texture of the exterior and the rigidity of the controls are unmatched in this price range. It is equipped with the renowned Cal. 3100 series movement. Automatic (Cal. 3135). 31 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 48 hours. Stainless steel x 18KWG (36mm diameter). Water resistant to 100m. Priced at 760,000 yen.
The result of Rolex's business consolidation that began in the 1990s is the new Datejust. It's powered by the legendary Caliber 3135. While the movement is the same as the previous model, the exterior has been dramatically improved.
In the 90s, Rolex acquired Genex, a case supplier, Gay Frères, a bracelet supplier, and Boninchi, a crown supplier. In 2001, construction began on a new case and bracelet factory, and by 05, Rolex had achieved in-house production.
The results of this integration can be seen in the Flash Fit (a term trademarked by Rolex) and the way the case fits together. Other companies have tried to narrow this gap in recent years, but Rolex's is completely tight. Additionally, the play between each link of the five-link Jubilee bracelet has also been narrowed. Generally, narrowing the play between links makes the bracelet stiff. However, the Datejust bracelet has an increased number of links, allowing for play throughout. It's also self-evident that the processing precision itself is excellent. The new Jubilee bracelet also addresses a long-standing issue with the buckle. Instead of the conventional plain clasp, a "concealed clasp" has been adopted. Its comfortable weight and lack of play on either side are unparalleled.
The Datejust has consistently remained the "standard" for practical automatic watches. It's true that competitors' products are also improving in quality. However, with the new Datejust, Rolex seems to have pulled ahead of the competition. While design preferences may differ, Rolex believes the latest is always best, and the same is true for the Datejust.
