Since the brand's launch in 2001, Richard Mille has dominated the luxury watch industry. While its innovative designs, sky-high prices, and bold marketing are eye-catching, there is another reason for its rapid growth. We would like to take a bird's-eye view of the product philosophy at the heart of Richard Mille through the company's signature product, the tourbillon.
[Serialization No. 29 / First published in the July 2015 issue of Chronos Japan]
RM 001 Tourbillon [2001]
A pioneer who used the movement itself as a visual element
This is the first model to be released. Released in August 2001. The first 12 were made by Maicho, while the later 5 had titanium baseplates. The power reserve indicator can be seen to the left of the barrel, and the torque indicator to the right. Manual winding (Cal. RM001). 23 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 70 hours. 18KWG (45mm x 38.3mm). Limited to 17 pieces. Not available in Japan (discontinued).
Richard Mille emerged like a comet, proclaiming himself the Formula 1 of wristwatches. His first model was the RM 001, released in 2001. Its most distinctive feature was the elimination of the dial. While this is a standard feature of skeleton watches, Mille gave the tourbillon a new shape by designing the movement itself.
Since the 1990s, various companies have been striving to create three-dimensional, thick cases. Franck Muller and Breitling are examples of this. From an outsider's perspective, the RM 001 was the first to extend this methodology to the movement. However, what's novel about this watch lies more in its design methodology than its form. Mr. Mille states:
"The movement, case, and dial of this watch were designed at the same time. There is no need for a movement spacer like in other watches."
The idea of designing everything simultaneously lent this watch an unparalleled sense of three-dimensionality and unity. Furthermore, Mille, who did not want his watches to become gadgets, also chose top-notch manufacturers. The case was made by Donze Baume, and the tourbillon movement was made by AP Renaud & Papy. In my opinion, Richard Mille's success was almost guaranteed the moment he chose AP Renaud & Papy. The company's movements are known for their reliability and precision. Renaud & Papy's tourbillon movement was particularly unbreakable, at least at the time. The model released in the summer of 2001 sold out immediately. Only one was returned due to a defect, and Mille says that only the crown needed to be readjusted. Following the great success of the RM 001, Richard Mille introduced the RM 002, which added a function selector. This was followed by the RM 003, which featured dual timekeeping. This marked the beginning of a successful run.
