Bulgari's Octo, released in 2012, has not only become recognized as the company's new icon, but also boasts a wide variety of variations. How did this collection, which began as a niche model in 2004, become Bulgari's new ambassador?
Masamasa Hirota (this magazine): Interview and writing
[Serialization No. 39 / First published in the July 2017 issue of Chronos Japan]
OCT
The origin of "Bvlgarinize," a symbol of mannishness
First released in 2012, this is a core model that inherits the design of the Gerald Genta Octo, released in 2004, while incorporating elements of a sports watch. The model pictured is a 38mm diameter version equipped with an in-house movement. Automatic (Cal. Solotempo). 26 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 42 hours. Stainless steel. Water resistant to 100m. Price: 810,000 yen.
On July 12, 2012, Bvlgari unveiled its new flagship collection, the Octo, at the Complesso Monumentale Santo Spirito Insaccia in the heart of Rome. This former hospital, now a museum, was known for its basilica-style architecture and the tiblio, a small room with an octagonal skylight. The octagon is the shape of the Octo case.
Michael Burke, who was CEO at the time, began the presentation by saying, "The new Octo represents universal values, and Rome is the Eternal City." He went on to talk about power, beauty, and eternity, which, ultimately, was what Octo was all about.
However, the prototype for this model existed as early as 04. It was the Octo, a watch designed by Gérald Genta. This was the first new product under the Bvlgari umbrella, and while it was not designed by Genta, it featured an octagonal case, which was Genta's favorite shape, and the exterior was entirely machined. At a time in 04 when even Hublot was still forging its cases, the Octo, with its machined polyhedral case, was an extremely ambitious watch.
So why did this model evolve into a core collection for Bulgari? Guido Terreni, head of the watch division, explains the reason: "(At the time) Gerald Genta and Daniel Roth were making niche complications. In 00, when the two companies were merged into Bulgari, we decided to make more. That was the Bulgari Octo."
However, Bvlgari didn't intend for the 2004 Genta Octo to become a new flagship collection simply by remodeling it into a three-hand watch. The company not only equipped it with an in-house movement it was developing, but also added what Burke calls power, beauty, and universality.
