Sinn Specialty Watch Company is now a globally renowned name, but it wasn't until the late 1960s that the company began manufacturing wristwatch chronographs. The "103," with its waterproof case designed for military use, evolved into a Sinn signature model in the late 80s.

Photographs by Takeshi Hoshi (estrellas)
Interview and text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
Special thanks to Michele Tripi (vintage-sinn-collector.de)
[First published in the November 2020 issue of Kronos Japan]


103.B [1980s]
The 80s model that defined the vertical counter style

103.B

103.B
This is the third-generation 103, released in the 1980s. Unlike later models, it lacks a crown guard and the bezel shape is also different. The bracelet is likely original as well. Manually wound (ETA7760). 17 jewels. 28,800 vph. Stainless steel (diameter 41mm, thickness 13mm). Water resistant to 4 bar. Reference product (photography courtesy of Abe Watch Shop).

 Helmut Sinn was a former German Air Force pilot and rally driver. After working in a variety of jobs, he founded Helmut Sinn Spezialuhren in 1961. Initially, Sinn produced cockpit clocks and other products for Lufthansa, but eventually began manufacturing wristwatches as well. One of their signature products is the Sinn 103 Compax, released in the late 60s. However, at the time, Sinn was merely an assembler that purchased parts from suppliers and assembled them, or renamed existing watches and sold them under the Sinn name, and it was difficult to call it a full-fledged watch manufacturer.

 The Sinn 103 became a fully-fledged collection in 86. Previously, the 103 was assembled from a miscellany of parts, but it was equipped with the latest ETA 7760 or 7750 movement, and the cases, which had varied from lot to lot, were standardized. Michele Tripi, a well-known Sinn collector and close friend of Helmut Sinn, writes, "That's when the Sinn 103 was truly born."

 However, the individuality of Sinn, which was an assembly company, remains strong in the earliest models. The case, with its thin lugs and no crown guard, is a repurposed old stock, and the bracelet, which is thought to be original and bears the name Expandro (it was featured in a catalog from that time), is also likely an old stock item. The black dial with three vertical bars is also less well-finished than Sinn watches of the same era, giving it a strong feel that this is a chronograph assembled by an assembler.

 However, the concept of the 103 – a highly visible chronograph in a waterproof case – was exactly what many watch enthusiasts wanted. After its release, the 103 became a hit not only in Germany but also in Japan, and quickly became recognized as a Sinn classic.

103.B

(Right) The Arabic indexes have now become an icon of the 103. They were added in the second generation in the 1970s. The version with a white in-dial is called "103.A", while the version with an all-black dial is called "103.B". Compared to the later 103, the dial printing is noticeably softer. There is also no day of the week display, and the date display is in white. (Top left) The case side is clean and has no crown guard. Sinn collector Michele Tripi says, "This case was old stock from Girard-Perregaux."

103.B

Case side. The design of the 103 is clearly modeled after the Type 20. In particular, the earliest models even had cases adapted from Type 20 models released by various manufacturers. Unlike later models, the bezel is lowered and the height of the crystal, made of reinforced acrylic, is also different. As with older cases, the bezel is not evenly spaced.

103.B

(Bottom right) The lugs are very much like those of a military watch. This design was later reused for the 103, but the earliest models, which used the old case, emphasized the slope of the lugs. (Bottom left) Screw-down case back. Unlike later cases, this can be opened with a wrench. The catalog from that time states that the watch is water resistant to 10 bar, but the case is engraved with a water resistant to 4 bar. This case also does not have a screw-down crown.


103.B.AUTO [1980's〜90's]
Early models with automatic movements

103.B.AUTO

103.B.AUTO
This is an early model believed to have been produced between the late 1980s and early 1990s. While the design is similar to the earliest models, the case and other components are completely different. This is a masterpiece that laid the foundation for the 103. Automatic (Cal. ETA7750). 17 or 25 jewels. 28,800 vph. Stainless steel (diameter 41mm, thickness 16mm). Reference product.

 Judging from the catalog, it's likely that the third-generation 103, released in 1986, was only available with the 7760, a manually wound version of the ETA 7750. At the time, Sinn seemed to view the new 103 as a budget-friendly, simple chronograph, and perhaps felt that an automatic movement was pointless. In fact, Sinn of that era only used expensive, multi-function movements for its automatic chronographs. A prime example is the Lemania 5100, with its coaxial 60-minute counter and 24-hour display. Even when the ETA 7750 was used, it was primarily used for moon phases and full calendars. The only exception was the "144," but perhaps because it was positioned as a budget version, its crystal was made of mineral glass rather than sapphire.

 However, the 103 eventually became primarily equipped with the automatic ETA 7750. Looking at the catalog, models with old stock cases and models with new cases were sold side by side for a while, and it's possible that the initial automatic models also had old stock cases. However, Michele Tripi wrote that the reason the earliest third-generation models used the old cases was "to stop the need until the new cases were ready." After the old cases ran out, the 103 cases, whether manual or automatic, were unified into a newly designed one.

 The model pictured is an automatic model with a new case. Its age is unknown, but it likely dates from the late 80s to early 90s. It lacks a day of the week display and the case design is slightly different, but its basic appearance is nearly identical to the current model. The 103 pilot's watch was born in the 1960s and completed in the late 80s. This model has continued to be produced with almost no changes since then.

103.B.AUTO

(Right) The early automatic models do not have a day of the week display. Therefore, the Sinn logo is in the same position as the date. Judging from the poor printing, it appears that the dial supplier is the same as the earliest models. To improve visibility, the background of the date display has been changed from white to a roughened black surface. (Left) The new case does not have a crown guard, and the push buttons are also recessed into the case. The black rotating bezel is made of aluminum. Aside from the change in the luminous display at 12 o'clock, the design remains the same as the current model.

103.B.AUTO

Case side. The total length is 47mm, the same as the old stock case. However, the lugs have been bent more strongly to accommodate the thickness of the case, and the case sides have been narrowed more, presumably to make the case appear thinner. The rotating bezel has also been made thicker, and the processing itself has been improved. The crown is screw-down.

103.B.AUTO

(Right) The lugs have been redesigned to be straight. Their shape closely resembles the waterproof Piquere cases that became popular from the late 1960s onwards. As a result, the appearance of the 103 with the new case is a return to the 103 from the 1960s and 70s. (Left) The case has been changed to a standard screw-down type. This case shape has been followed ever since, but strangely, there is no mention of waterproofness for this model.



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