The Master Control collection has been the backbone of Jaeger-LeCoultre since 1992. It's not as straightforward as the Reverso, but that's precisely what makes it so fascinating. The Master Control is the brand's bread and butter. Let's explore its long and fascinating history.

master control

Photographs by Takeshi Hoshi (estrellas)
Interview and text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)


BIG MASTER [1992]
Achieved the first 1000-hour control
A milestone in standard watches

Big Master

Big Master
The first Master Control model was the Big Master, measuring 37mm in diameter. Other models included the Master Classic, measuring 34mm. Reference 140.880.892. Automatic (Caliber 889/2). 36 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 38 hours. Stainless steel. Water resistant to 5 bar. Private collection.

 Since the mid-1980s, Jaeger-LeCoultre has been working to turn its business around. After releasing the "Reverso 60th Anniversary Model" in 1991, the company followed up with a solid three-hand model: the Master Control series with a round case.

 The project was planned by Gunter Blümlein, who had successfully turned around IWC, and his confidant, Henri-Jean Belmont, CEO of Jaeger-LeCoultre. The two had a clear vision for the product. As Blümlein put it, "For the same price, more features, and for the same features, a lower price."

 The Master Control, released in 1992, was a kind of retro watch, modeled after designs from the 40s to 60s. However, what made it more than just a retro watch was the addition of the groundbreaking 1000-hour control, also known as the Master Control test. The Master Control's caliber 889 had such excellent accuracy that it passed COSC chronometer testing. However, Blümlein and Belmont wanted to add even more value.

 The COSC chronometer test measures the accuracy of the movement alone at three temperatures and in five positions over a 15-day period. In contrast, Jaeger-LeCoultre's Master Control standard measures the accuracy of the cased watch at three temperatures and in six positions. It also includes shock resistance and air pressure tests.

 Their pursuit of added value was also reflected in the watch's water resistance. While a typical three-hand watch is water resistant to 3 bar, the Master Control was water resistant to 5 bar. Blümlein and Belmont created the Master Control not as a mere retro watch, but as a highly accurate, tough, practical watch.

Big Master

(Right) A major feature of the Master Control collection is the classic bombe dial. This is an attempt to recreate in the 90s a detail that was widely seen in the 1960s. The strong sunburst finish is also a detail from the 50s and 60s. (Left) Date display. As befits a luxury watch, the frame is shaped like a picture frame. A diamond-cut frame is layered on top of that. This is also a finish that imitates luxury watches of the past. The details of the dial are so excellent that it is hard to believe that this is a watch that is about a quarter of a century old.

Big Master

Case side. Equipped with the slim automatic movement Cal. 889 and a screw-down case back, the case is less than 10mm thick despite being water resistant to 5 bar.

Big Master

(Right) Classic lugs and a bracelet updated in a 90s style. At first glance, the bracelet looks like a rice bracelet, but it's all machined from solid wood. It has a little too much play by today's standards, but it's still a first-class bracelet. (Left) To make the case thinner, the case back is deliberately screwed down rather than threaded. To prevent corrosion, the four screws are treated with Parylene. The case back also has a gold relief certifying that it has passed Master Control, and the signature and date of the craftsman who tested it are engraved on the inside.


MASTER CONTROL DATE [2020]
Significantly extended power reserve
Modern spec version

Master Control Date

Master Control Date
The Master Control was redesigned in 2020. It features a more classic design and the Cal. 899AC movement, which boasts excellent precision and magnetic resistance. It's automatic, has 32 jewels, beats at 28,800 vph, and boasts a power reserve of approximately 70 hours. It's stainless steel (diameter 40mm, thickness 8.78mm). It's water resistant to 5 bar. It's priced at 724,000 yen.

 The Master Control has been the backbone of Jaeger-LeCoultre since its release in 1992. However, there have been no major advancements since the movement was updated between 2004 and 05. While each of the new base movements was highly refined, it lacked the expandability to allow for further improvements.

 However, in 2020, Jaeger-LeCoultre finally undertook a full model change for the Master Control. In terms of internal changes, it could be said that this is the first complete overhaul in 15 years. It is equipped with the same caliber 899 as its predecessor. However, not only has its magnetic resistance been significantly improved thanks to a silicon escapement, but a new barrel has resulted in a longer power reserve of approximately 70 hours. The standard strategy for extending the power reserve is to expand the baseplate and install a larger barrel. However, technological advances have dramatically improved the performance of the 899 without changing the movement size. Additionally, the shortcoming of the 899 and its base model, the 889, which often skipped hands when setting the time, has been completely eliminated.

 The exterior has also been revamped. Since 2000, Jaeger-LeCoultre has been working on in-house case production, improving quality almost every year. The new Master Control is the culmination of this work. Not only has the distortion of the mirror surface on the case been reduced, but the satin finish on the sides has also been made uniform. The bombé dial, an icon of the Master Control, has also been further emphasized in this model. While it may look retro at first glance, it has hidden performance that goes beyond that, just like the 1992 Master Control.

 However, it took a long time for this collection to mature, and we would like to look back on that long journey in the following pages.

Master Control Date

(Right) The dial has a sunburst finish, just like the first model. This model deliberately does not have diamond-cut numeral indexes. Perhaps this is to emphasize its classic look. Also, unusually for a current model, the logo has been made smaller. (Left) Details that have been simplified since the 2010s have been restored to their original form in this model. A symbol of this is the treatment of the date display. At one time, Master Control models were painted to look like a frame, perhaps to cut costs. However, this model has been machined to create a frame-like effect.

Master Control Date

The case side is as sleek as ever. The reduced protrusion of the back cover makes it even more comfortable to wear. Note the extremely fine satin finish.

Master Control Date

(Right) The lugs curve all the way to the tip, like a dress watch. Cutting off the corners was the design code for the Master Control, but the 2020 model has been revised to a more classic design. The strap is made of Novonappa, reminiscent of the ostrich leather of the first model. The stitching is deliberately emphasized to give it a classic look. (Left) Peeking out from the case back is the Cal. 899AC, which has been significantly upgraded with features such as a silicon escapement. It is the completed version of the Cal. 889 series, which began in 1967.



Contact info: Jaeger-LeCoultre Tel. 0120-79-1833


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