Bvlgari unveils new watches at Geneva Watch Days

Bulgari unveiled six new watches at Geneva Watch Days 2023, which began on August 29th. The theme for this year's event was the unique duality of nature. Here we introduce the latest models, which were unveiled in three acts.

Bvlgari's new Octo Finissimo Carbon Gold

　Geneva Watch Days 2023 began on August 29th, with new models being announced one after another by various watchmakers. Bvlgari, with the theme of "Nature's Unique Duality," is reinventing materials, colors, shapes, and the rare savoir-faire that the company has inherited, with new expressions and rediscoveries.

　The company announced a total of six new models based on this theme. Two models were introduced in each of the three acts, with the first act telling the epic story of the Octo Finissimo, centered around the new materials.

　The Octo Finissimo, with its extremely thin and exquisite exterior, is one of the collections that demonstrates the evolution and achievements of Bvlgari watchmaking. Since 2014, it has set eight world records for thinness, without compromising on practicality or design.

　The Octo Finissimo is currently available in a wide variety of variations within the Bvlgari collection. Its history includes models crafted from a variety of materials, including titanium, platinum, pink gold, yellow gold, ceramic, and tantalum. This time, the story of materials continues to unfold, centered around the Octo Finissimo Automatic, which won the Record Thinnest Award in 2017, and the Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar, which will also win the Record Thinnest Award in 2021.

　The new Octo Finissimo comes in two varieties: the basic three-hand Octo Finissimo Carbon Gold and the complex Octo Finissimo Carbon Gold Perpetual Calendar. Both models feature a contrast between the anthracite color of the carbon and the brilliance of the gold, adding a futuristic touch to the Octo Finissimo's edgy, complex design.

　The contrast between the anthracite and gold colors of this watch was achieved by combining different materials. The exterior is titanium coated with carbon fiber. The dial is also made of carbon, creating an avant-garde design. Meanwhile, the gold-colored hands and indexes give the watch high visibility and a luxurious feel. However, the benefits of using carbon go beyond the design. The lightweight material, combined with the thin exterior, will likely provide a comfortable fit.

Watchmaking techniques embodied in a thin movement

　To reiterate, the Octo Finissimo's most distinctive feature is its extremely thin exterior. The movement plays a key role in achieving this thinness. The three-hand Octo Finissimo Carbon Gold is equipped with the BVL138, while the Octo Finissimo Carbon Gold Perpetual Calendar is equipped with the BVL305. Both are automatic models, but the former has a case thickness of 6.9mm, while the latter has a case thickness of 7.6mm. The caseback reveals either the platinum micro-rotor with pink gold accents or the pink gold bridge adorned with Côtes de Genève stripes.

　The surprise of the BVL305, equipped with a perpetual calendar, is still fresh in our memory. In 2021, Bvlgari announced the seventh generation Octo Finissimo, featuring the BVL305, the world's thinnest automatic perpetual calendar, a movement redesigned from scratch by Bvlgari. Despite being an automatic perpetual calendar, the movement is only 2.75mm thick. Furthermore, the complex perpetual calendar display is divided into four sections across the entire dial, achieving excellent legibility, once again proving the excellence of Bvlgari's watchmaking.

　The domestic list prices are not cheap, with the Octo Finissimo Carbon Gold priced at 3,674,000 yen and the Octo Finissimo Carbon Gold Perpetual Calendar priced at 13,277,000 yen (both including tax). However, with their avant-garde design and excellent practicality, these new models are sure to stimulate the desire to own one.

Bvlgari's new "Serpenti Misteriosi"

　The second act of Bvlgari's show at Geneva Watch Days 2023 is the Serpenti Misteriosi. This collection is a secret watch, and when you move the snake's tongue, a diamond-studded dial is revealed. While the luxurious design, which expresses the snake motif with elegant gemstones and precious metals, is captivating, the star of the show is Bvlgari's smallest circular mechanical movement, the Piccolissimo BVL100.

　The hand-wound movement, Cal. BVL100, which Bvlgari has named "Picolissimo," meaning "very, very small," is the smallest movement currently on the market. Bvlgari's watchmaking expertise in ultra-thin watches, as mentioned above, was also instrumental in the design and manufacture of this intricately crafted small movement. The mainspring is wound using a crown located under the snake's head. Another notable feature is that the Piccolissimo has a power reserve of approximately 30 hours despite being only 12.3 mm in diameter and 2.5 mm thick.

　First, we focused on the Piccolissimo, but of course it is also a high jewelry watch that is perfected in the typical Bulgari style.

　The new Serpenti Misteriosi comes in two varieties: one in white gold set with over 33 carats of diamonds, and one in pink gold set with navette-cut diamonds on a black lacquer background.

　The snake (Serpenti in Italian) is an iconic Bulgari motif, believed to have powerful powers dating back to Mesopotamian civilization. The company has been inspired by the Serpenti since the 1940s. Incidentally, Hollywood star Elizabeth Taylor was the first to wear a Serpenti secret watch, featuring a dragon's head with a cute golden tongue.

　Bulgari and Serpenti have a long history. This time, the company has revised the lines of the Serpenti Misteriosi, making it lighter and giving the new model a more comfortable fit. It can also be worn on either the left or right arm. The snake, a symbol of strength and rebirth, is wrapped tightly around the wrist, as if never letting go. The watch section is also easily removable, making it convenient for adjusting the time.

　Despite minor improvements, the Serpenti Misteriosi's alluring beauty remains unchanged. You'll be drawn in by its emerald eyes, which Elizabeth Taylor was said to have favored.

　The hexagonal scales are individually cast using the delicate lost-wax technique, which dates back more than 6000 years, while the black lacquer applied to the pink gold model is inspired by techniques used in Egypt around 2000 BC and the enamel technique used by Bulgari on the Serpenti from the 1960s onwards.

　This new high jewelry watch embodies Bulgari's tradition and innovation in both its movement and exterior.

Bulgari's new Monete Catene

　The third act focused on the historical value of antique coins, resulting in the introduction of two secret watches: the Monete Catene, featuring a denarius bearing the portrait of Emperor Caracalla, and the Monete Catene Dual Time, featuring two coins representing the legendary couple, Roman Emperor Septimius Severus and his wife Julia Domna, who was revered as a goddess.

　Antique coins, which transcend time and convey the achievements of ancient Rome and Greece to the present day, essentially embody the Bvlgari style, which has its roots in Rome and Greece. Based on this belief, Bvlgari has been presenting creations that feature antique coins in sophisticated objects since the 1930s and in jewelry since the 1960s, based on an aesthetic inspired by Roman jewelry from the 1st century AD.

　Nicola Bulgari, who had a special fascination with antique coins throughout history, conceived the first Monete in 1966. He came up with the idea of ​​creating a timeless creation from the heritage of antique coins. The new Monete Catene, featuring a carefully selected rare antique coin as its cover, will be unveiled at the third act of Geneva Watch Days in 2023.

　While the uniqueness of the antique coin is what first catches your eye, the Bulgari-style case and the sparkling diamond setting are also noteworthy. The Monete Catene's gold case, like the previous Octo Monete watch, is designed with eight facets. This geometric form is reminiscent of the ceiling of the Basilica of Maxentius in Rome.

　The diamond-formed form is heavy and luxurious, reminiscent of the glittering ornaments of ancient times.

　Furthermore, the Monete Catene Dual Time is inspired by a rectangular watch designed by Bulgari in the 1970s, featuring two dials with two-tone hands that indicate the time in different time zones.

　The yellow gold and diamonds surrounding the coin make this a truly special secret watch.