Breguet, which will celebrate its 250th anniversary in 2025, has unveiled the Classique Subscription 2025 in Paris, the home of Abraham-Louis Breguet's workshop, where he witnessed the birth of great inventions as a master watchmaker.
Abraham-Louis Breguet and Subscription
With a case diameter of approximately 61 mm, a large white enamel dial, and a movement with a simple structure, this robust and reliable watch was popularized through advertising brochures designed by Breguet. While many people first think of Abraham-Louis Breguet as a master watchmaker, he was also an experienced and visionary businessman who implemented innovative methods in marketing.
An advertising brochure designed by Breguet
The Subscription watch embodies the drive expressed in Abraham-Louis Breguet's philosophy to widen the customer base and open the doors of luxury watchmaking through innovative methods not only in watch design and conception, but also in production and distribution. In many ways, the Subscription watch is a cornerstone of the Breguet brand.
Classic Subscription 2025, inheriting the passion born in 1775
The Souscription 2025 features a dazzling white Grand Feu enamel dial, faithfully recreating the spirit of timepieces previously crafted in the Quai de l'Horloge workshops, such as pocket watches No. 246, No. 324 and No. 383. The case back is directly inspired by the construction of the first Souscription watch signed by Abraham-Louis Breguet.
This timepiece features a double-sided anti-reflective sapphire crystal with a "chevé" design and a hand-guilloched "Quai de l'Horloge" sapphire crystal caseback, which is also anti-reflective on the inside and engraved with "BREGUET 250 YEARS." The dial features a gold base with white Grand Feu enamel, beveled and polished curved blued Breguet hands, and black Petit Feu enamel Breguet numerals, Breguet signature, and minute track. Other exclusive details include the diamond-point pantograph engraving of "Souscription," the serial number, and the secret signature. The time display is accurate to ±2 minutes and comes in a red leather presentation case, inspired by the Moroccan leather cases used by Breguet at the time. It is a hand-wound movement (Cal. VS00). It has 21 jewels. 21,600 vibrations per hour. Power reserve: approximately 96 hours (4 days). Breguet gold case (diameter 40mm, thickness 10.8mm). Water resistant to 30m. Price: 7,359,000 yen (tax included).
A shining face with a classic look
The dial, perfectly adorned with Grand Feu enamel, epitomizes the refined aesthetic sought by master watchmakers. Its simplicity and contrasts ensure its ease of reading. At its heart, Breguet's unique hands, entirely hand-blued and curved in steel with perforated tips, are set. Their tapered tips display the famous, slightly tilted Breguet numerals and specially designed dividing lines, revealing a circular "chemin de fer" (railway track) marking the hours, 5, 10, 15 and 30 minutes. The numerals and minute markers are finished in black Petit Feu enamel, the same color as the Breguet signature at 12 o'clock.
A secret sign that appears depending on the light
Depending on the light, the word "Souscription" appears discreetly between the center of the dial and 6 o'clock, along with a unique serial number and a secret signature. Popularized on the original "Souscription" watches, this signature certifies the watch as a Breguet Manufacture creation and serves to deter counterfeiters.
An old-fashioned pantograph for engraving signatures
"Schwe" sapphire crystal
This classically distinctive face is protected by a "chevet" sapphire crystal, another invention of Abraham-Louis Breguet. Thinner and less domed than was popular at the time, its relatively flat surfaces gently curved towards the edges to blend seamlessly with the case, something unprecedented at the time. Along with Breguet numerals and hands, this distinctive shape has become part of the modern horological vocabulary.
A redesigned Breguet gold case
Along with the Classique Subscription 2025, Breguet is introducing its exclusive gold alloy, Breguet Gold, a blond precious metal blend of gold, silver, copper, and palladium. The 40mm diameter, 10.8mm high case features a new design that sets it apart from other watches, with particular attention paid to ergonomics. Breguet's signature fluted decoration has been replaced with a delicate satin-finished case band that respects the style of the original timepiece, and the lugs are curved to improve the fit on the wrist, creating a more flowing appearance than traditional straight lugs.
Breguet Gold
Conceived and developed in the Maison's Manufacture, 18K Breguet gold is composed of 75% gold, blended with silver, copper and palladium. Not only is it lustrous, it is also resistant to tarnish and stable over time, ensuring a pure and elegant finish. Every detail that distinguishes the Maison's collections is designed with a focus on durability and aesthetics.
The heartbeat of mechanical art
The baseplate and bridges are shot-blasted, a new decoration directly inspired by Abraham-Louis Breguet movements. Blued steel screws and rubies complement the movement, while the striking central barrel is engraved with a message from the founder explaining the design of the Subscription movement. The text, taken from an advertising brochure, faithfully reproduces his distinctive handwriting.
The first Breguet balance spring to feature Nivachron™
The newly developed guilloched pattern, Quai de l'Horloge
This timepiece features the Quai de l'Horloge, a completely new type of guilloching pattern unveiled this year. This unconventional design draws inspiration from the singular curves of the Île de la Cité and the slender, refined charm of the Île Saint-Louis, creating an infinitely variable, harmonious rhythm. This new release celebrates guilloching as a living art, elevated by Breguet's expertise.
Individual numbers between 250 and 5250
The individual numbering of Breguet watches today stems from a practice dating back to the company's early days. As early as the 1780s, Breguet watches were numbered according to a system that allowed for precise dating. In 1787, a new series began, beginning with the number 1. In 1791, a new series also began, continuing through the number 5121. Faced with the proliferation of counterfeit watches, Breguet adopted a precautionary principle, limiting each series to approximately 5,000 pieces. In the mid-19th century, a tradition of producing series numbered between 250 and 5250 was established, a tradition that continues to this day. Each Breguet watch is uniquely numbered. Carefully recorded in the archives, these numbers are engraved on the case, movement, and dial, guaranteeing authenticity and historical lineage.
Notable details
Finally, let's introduce the details.
