H. Moser & Cie. unveils the new Streamliner Perpetual Calendar, combining a perpetual calendar with an organic case.

Geneva Watch Days 2021 will be held from August 30th, 2021. H. Moser & Cie. has released the new Streamliner Perpetual Calendar, which houses the company's iconic simple perpetual calendar movement in the popular Streamliner case.

A perpetual calendar that complements the sporty look

　H. Moser & Cie.'s perpetual calendar, the Cal. HMC 341, has an extremely simple appearance, unlike other companies' watches. The 12-month display has been replaced with a hand that emerges from the center of the dial, the day of the week display has been deliberately omitted, and the leap year display has been moved to the movement, resulting in a watch that looks almost identical to a regular date display. The basic design was created by the famous Andreas Strehler (!). Chronos Japan has always considered this extremely simple perpetual calendar to be an H. Moser & Cie. masterpiece. In fact, its operability, visibility, and ease of use are all excellent.

　However, like the early H. Moser & Cie. models, the Caliber HMC 341 had minor issues. However, when Edouard Meylan became president, he ordered major improvements. Today, H. Moser & Cie. perpetual calendars boast outstanding stability.

　This time, the finish of the Caliber HMC 341 has been changed, and it has been converted to a center second hand, and it has been installed in a Streamliner with an integrated bracelet and case. The movement is called Caliber HMC 812. The basic functions of this movement are the same as the previous Caliber HMC 341. However, it has been changed from a small second hand to a center second hand. The classic "indirect center second" system, which uses two stacked third wheels to turn the central seconds pinion, gives an even more classical look to H. Moser & Cie.'s perpetual movement, which already has a classic appearance.

　However, it is H. Moser & Cie. today that has not made it simply a classic. The bridges and gear train are PVD coated in anthracite gray, and the baseplate is microblasted and then rhodium-plated in anthracite. Perhaps the reason they did not use a single finish is to give the movement a three-dimensional feel. The large hole jewels, typical of H. Moser & Cie., stand out beautifully against the gray baseplate and bridges.

　This movement is manually wound. Normally, it is considered taboo to put a perpetual calendar on a manually wound movement, but the Cal. HMC 812 has a power reserve of at least seven days, and in reality it is about ten days. With such a long power reserve, there is little risk of the mainspring unwinding and the perpetual calendar stopping. Another great advantage of this perpetual calendar is that the date can be set backwards.

　The design of the Streamliner, which is integrated with the bracelet, remains the same as before. The same goes for the hour and minute hands, which are tipped with the luminous material Globolight. The dial is a grey "Signature Fumé". Although I haven't seen it in person, I expect it will contrast well with the indices and hands. Also, this is just a guess, but the surface is likely to have been lightly sprayed with a matte lacquer. Spraying a matte lacquer would eliminate the obvious sense of luxury, but H. Moser & Cie. dials are good at matte finishes. It is likely to be a watch that successfully combines visibility with a sense of luxury.

　Fortunately, this Perpetual is not limited edition. To be honest, the price is not cheap, but the ease of use of the Perpetual and the excellent exterior finish make it quite attractive.