An event showcasing a variety of precious men's rings will be held in Roppongi in January 2022

L'Ecole, the school of jewelry and jewellery arts, with the support of Van Cleef & Arpels, will be exhibiting a selection of breathtaking men's rings from Yves Gastou's collection at Gallery 3 at 21_21 DESIGN SIGHT in Roppongi from January 14 to March 13, 2022.
This exhibition will bring together 270 rings, ranging from a ring worn by the Doge of Venice in the 17th century to an American biker ring from the 1970s, from ancient Egyptian rings to 19th century "memento mori" skull rings, from 18th century enamel rings to rings created by contemporary artists.

Men's Rings from the Yves Gastou Collection

About Yves Gastou

　Yves Gastou's name became widely known when he opened a gallery on Rue Bonaparte in Paris in the mid-1980s, which quickly became a famous spot representing the Saint-Germain-des-Prés district.

　A pioneering antiques dealer, Gastu was the first of his generation to display French and Italian furniture from the 1940s to 1970s alongside iconic 1980s design pieces by Sottsass, Mendini, and Kuramata Shiro in a gallery. Like his pioneering and somewhat provocative personality, the gallery itself, with its iconoclastic façade featuring black and white terrazzo signed by Ettore Sottsass, caused a stir when it opened next to the École des Beaux-Arts in 1986, but is now recognized as an iconic building.

Doge's Ring of Venice

　The ring worn by the Doge (head of state) of the Republic of Venice, a symbol of exceptional power, is eye-catching for its astonishingly intricate details. When the bezel is opened, there is a cavity for holding sealing wax, which could be melted and used as an intaglio to seal letters. This cavity was also used to hide poison. In Renaissance Venice, this ring, inherited from the Byzantine culture of the Eastern Roman Empire, could be used to assassinate enemies without being noticed.

　Gastou's extraordinary collection of men's rings remained a secret until it was exhibited at L'Ecole in Paris in 2018. This exhibition aims to reveal the collector's side of his life, which had remained largely unknown until now, as he was best known for his work as a dealer. For over 30 years, Gastou built up his collection with great enthusiasm and risk, collecting pieces not only through the usual methods of a treasure hunter (flea markets, public auctions, jewellery and workshop inventories, etc.), but also through extensive travel.

Coffin Ring that sublimates death

Bishop's Ring

　Bishops' rings typically feature carvings based on Christian iconography, often in fine relief. Cherubs, St. Luke's winged bull, St. Mark's winged lion, and a dove symbolizing the Holy Spirit can be seen alongside the Sacred Heart, an ear of wheat, and a three-leaf cross. Cardinals had the coat of arms of the pope who appointed them engraved on their rings. The Pope himself, meanwhile, wears a ring featuring a fisherman motif, with the bezel depicting St. Peter in a boat fishing with a net. Worn not only for religious services but also for everyday use, these rings are often adjustable, like this one, so they can be worn over gloves during Mass or processions.

British Mourning Ring

　These two rings are mourning rings worn in late 18th and early 19th century England to commemorate the dead. The ring on the left is openwork gold with a cameo set in it. The ring on the right features niello inlay with palmettes, arabesque motifs, on both shoulders of the ring, and a human hair on the bezel. Both rings are testament to the level of craftsmanship during this period. The more death there is, the more artisans humans create to resist oblivion.

　These mourning jewelry pieces, along with laments and eulogies dedicated to the dead, were created to help people cope with the death of a loved one. Popularized in England in the 16th century and then spreading to continental Europe, these rings were inscribed with the name of the deceased and sometimes contained a lock of their hair or a portrait.

Music Box Ring

　This ring incorporates a music box. The sound is produced by rotating gears hidden within a floral motif. Two caryatids (pillars), one male and one female, adorn the shoulders. Crafted of gold and silver, it dates to the late 19th century. The music box was invented in the late 18th century and is said to have been created by Geneva watchmaker Antoine Favre (1768-1828). The first models were simple cylindrical rings with pins connected to pre-tuned copper plates that produced music. However, no music box rings from this period have been found.

　In 1802, Isaac-Daniel Piguet, a watchmaker from the Vallée de Joux in Switzerland, incorporated this invention into various pieces of jewelry (rings, watches, etc.). He first worked in Geneva for watchmakers such as J. F. Leschot and H. Capt, before moving to SP Meylan in 1810. Music boxes were very popular at the time, as they were the only way for people who could not play an instrument to listen to music.