Dress watches were once limited to specific occasions and styles. However, times have changed, and as the needs of watch users have diversified, various manufacturers have begun to offer a wide variety of dress watches. This time, the ranking was based on dress watches that can be worn in everyday life, rather than being limited to specific occasions. The criteria for selection were "not excessively rare," "waterproof enough for everyday use," "case thickness of 11mm or less," "power reserve of approximately two days or more," and "excellent visibility."
2024/12/14 update
A dress watch for everyday wear
10. IWC Portofino Automatic
17 points / 2 people
This IWC collection was launched in 1984. Its name comes from Portofino, a fishing village and luxury resort town on the Ligurian Sea in Italy. Its elegant round case, straight lugs, and Roman numeral indices at 12 and 6 o'clock are iconic features. Like other IWC collections, there are a wide variety of variations, but the Portofino Automatic 37 is a model updated in 2022. Its small, elegant design is notable for its approximately 120-hour power reserve. Automatic movement (Cal. 32111). 21 jewels. 28,800 vph. Approximately 120-hour power reserve. Stainless steel case (37mm diameter, 9.4mm thick). Water resistant to 5 bar. Price: 891,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) IWC Tel. 0120-05-1868
●The exquisite size makes it suitable for unisex use, speaking to the trend toward larger diameters in recent ladies' models. The diamond-embellished models can also be worn casually by men. Its ease of use, with water resistance to 5 bar and a power reserve of approximately 120 hours, is also very good. (Nogami)
The gentle nuance of the case shape will add color to your everyday life. (Shinoda)
9. Zenith Elite Classic
19 points / 2 people
Along with the El Primero, the "Elite" name is known as one of Zenith's signature movements, and there's even a collection bearing this name. This dressy collection reimagines the design codes of mid-20th-century watchmaking, and Zenith says it "expresses the essence of Zenith's vision of contemporary elegance." This model is equipped with the aforementioned Caliber Elite 670. While its functionality is minimal, consisting of only three hands and a date display, the radial pattern on the dial adds to its originality, making it a recommended choice for those seeking a dress watch that subtly expresses individuality. Automatic (Caliber Elite 670). 27 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 50 hours. Stainless steel case (40.5mm diameter). Water resistant to 5 bar. Price: ¥803,000 (tax included). (Inquiries) Zenith Boutique Ginza Tel. 03-3575-5861
●The dial is also elaborately designed, adding a touch of elegance to your wrist. (Shinoda)
Zenith's Elite collection is known for its dress watches, but the 5 ATM water resistance and approximately 50-hour power reserve are likely intended for everyday use. However, I would like to see the return of the previously available "Ultra-Thin" model with no date. (Nabata)
8. Breguet/Classique 5177
20 points / 2 people
When discussing dress watches, the Classique 5177 is almost always mentioned. While guilloched models are also popular, the model featured here features an elegant Grand Feu enamel dial. The deep navy blue contrasts with the white Breguet numerals and rhodium-plated Breguet hands, making it not only a sophisticated design but also highly legible. Automatic movement (Cal. 777Q). 26 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 55 hours. 18K white gold case (38mm diameter, 8.8mm thick). Water resistant to 30m. Price: 4,224,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Breguet Boutique Ginza Tel. 03-6254-7211
●The bezel and lugs have been made thinner to accentuate their delicacy, while the deep blue Grand Feu enamel characteristic of Breguet is used on the dial, making it a striking piece. The basic design is simple, so the Breguet hands and index fonts also have a strong presence. I would also like to see the two-hand 5157, but the power reserve did not meet the standards this time. (Ando)
7rd Place: Parmigiani Fleurier/Tonda PF
27 points / 2 people
Metal bracelets may evoke the image of a sports watch. However, some models, with their thin construction and meticulous finish, are also suitable as dress watches. The Parmigiani Fleurier "Tonda PF" is a prime example. The model featured here was released in 2023. While featuring the clean, simple design typical of the Tonda PF, its key feature is its "Minute Rattrapante" movement. Pressing the pusher at 8 o'clock advances the minute hand by five minutes, while pressing the pusher at 10 o'clock advances the minute hand by one minute. Normally, this rattrapante hand is hidden by the minute hand, so when the minute hand aligns with the position you've advanced using the pusher, you know the time has passed. Automatic movement (Cal. PF051). 35 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve of approximately 48 hours. Stainless steel and platinum case (40mm diameter, 10.7mm thick). Water resistant to 60m. 4,653,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Parmigiani Fleurier pfd.japan@parmigiani.com
●I was torn between the Tonda PF Automatic and this one, but I chose this one with a new mechanism because it looks like a simple dress watch at first glance, but it's unexpected. The minimalist beauty of its design and exquisite finish are perfect for expressing the elegance required of a dress watch. (Nogami)
6. Cartier Tank Must
31 points / 2 people
The Tank Must is a 2021 rebirth of the Must de Cartier model, which was first released in 1977. Incorporating Art Deco style, this model inherits the thin rectangular case that is the hallmark of the Tank series, making it a dress watch that can be worn for both formal and informal occasions. Quartz movement. Stainless steel case (33.7mm long x 25.5mm wide, 6.6mm thick). Water resistant for everyday use. 544,500 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Cartier Customer Service Center Tel. 0120-1847-00
●A must-have masterpiece for a "dress watch." With this timeless form, wouldn't a quartz movement be enough to satisfy you? The two-hand design, with no second hand or date, is also the true essence of a dress watch. (Nabata)
5th place: Credor Masterpiece Collection Eichi II
34 points / 2 people
The Eichi II was released in 2014 as the successor to the Nord Eichi. Based on the concept of "ultimate simplicity," it is a dress watch that can be passed down through generations and is part of Credor's lineup. The model shown here is an 18KPG case model that was added to the lineup in 2018. The dial is white porcelain, evoking the snow that falls in Shinshu, where the Micro Artist Studio, the birthplace of the Eichi, is located. Along with the hand-painted indexes and brand logo by the studio's artisans, this is a must-see detail. Manual-winding Spring Drive (Cal. 7R14). 41 jewels. Power reserve: approximately 60 hours. 18KPG case (39mm diameter, 10.3mm thick). Water resistant for everyday use. Price: 6,545,000 yen (tax included). For inquiries, please contact Seiko Watch Customer Service (Credor) at 0120-302-617.
●This watch beautifully combines Japanese aesthetics and high technology, with a porcelain dial featuring striking handwritten indexes, a hand-finished gold case, and the Spring Drive Caliber 7R14 with a torque return system. Ideally, I would have ranked it a little higher, but since it only has three hands, it has been placed more modestly. With the addition of the "Gold Feather" with the Caliber 68 series, Credor's presence in this field is likely to increase even further. (Ando)
4. Chopard/LUC 1860
36 points / 2 people
Released in 1997, the "LUC" collection is named after the company's founder, Louis-Ulysse Chopard. While the lineup includes a variety of models produced by Chopard's Manufacture, the model shown here is modeled after the 1997 timepiece of the same name, the first from the Manufacture. The guilloched salmon-pink dial features only three hands, creating a refined appearance. The Geneva Hallmark-certified automatic movement, Cal. LUC 96.40-L, is just 3.3mm thick and can be viewed through the transparent case back. Automatic (Cal. LUC 96.40-L). 29 jewels. Power reserve: approximately 65 hours. 28,800 vph. Lucent Steel™ case (36.5mm diameter, 8.2mm thick). Water resistant to 30m. Price: ¥3,718,000 (tax included). (Inquiries) Chopard Japan Press Tel. 03-5524-8922
●The ultra-thin LUC 96.40-L movement boasts a vintage look reminiscent of the earliest LUC models, is a COSC-certified chronometer, has the Geneva Seal certification, and has a power reserve of approximately 65 hours. Absolutely nothing to say! (Sugawara)
3. Rolex Perpetual 1908
42 points / 3 people
The Perpetual 1908 is a new collection from Rolex, launched in 2023. It is a simple round watch with a small seconds hand, but features a distinctive bezel design that combines fluted and domed elements. It is equipped with the automatic Cal. 7140 movement, which uses a silicon Syloxi hairspring and has a power reserve of approximately 66 hours. This movement can be seen through the transparent caseback, a rarity for Rolex. Automatic (Cal. 7140). 38 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 66 hours. 18K Yellow Gold (diameter 39mm, thickness 9.50mm). Water resistant to 50m.
It's the perfect model, with a moderate diameter of 39mm, a slim profile of less than 10mm, an automatic movement with a power reserve of approximately 66 hours, and a vintage look with a small second hand and Breguet hands. I want it! (Sugawara)
2. Longines/Longines Master Collection
54 points / 5 people
The classic Longines Master Collection was released in 2022 to commemorate Longines' 190th anniversary. This model, which caused quite a stir among watch enthusiasts, was redesigned with a small seconds dial and released the following year as the Ref. L2.843.4.73.2. Its matte silver dial features deeply engraved indices and elegant blue hands, so delicately engraved that they appear to have been hand-engraved. Combined with its reasonable price, this watch is a fitting worthy "everyday dress watch," earning it second place in our rankings.
●It has a vintage feel, but it is not a reproduction; it is a masterpiece that has been skillfully adapted to elevate vintage elements into a beautiful timepiece. The details, such as the copper-colored Arabic numeral engraved dial, are also impressive. (Nabata)
●A masterpiece that skillfully mixes old and new details. The modern design element of a wide endpaper is skillfully combined with a classic small seconds hand. It's a dress watch you've never seen before. The combination of a silicon balance spring and a free-sprung balance is also very practical. (Hirota)
1. Audemars Piguet / CODE 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Automatic
57 points / 4 people
At first glance, this watch appears simple, but in reality, it is a model brimming with Audemars Piguet's originality. The deep green dial features hundreds of tiny holes creating a concentric circle motif, creating an eye-catching design. The three-layer structure of the CODE 1159, with a round outer case sandwiching an octagonal middle case, is still intact. Automatic winding (Cal. 4302). 32 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 70 hours. Stainless steel case (41mm diameter, 10.7mm thick). Water resistant to 3 bar. Priced at 3,795,000 yen (tax included).
●CODE 11.59's first stainless steel model maintains a thickness of 10.7mm despite its complex case structure. Its approximately 70-hour power reserve and bar indexes provide improved legibility. It represents a new era of sporty dress. (Sugawara)
●It has a simple look, so it can be worn in a dressy style. (Shinoda)
