Top 10 ceramic models that challenge color expression and surface finish

Ceramics, being extremely hard, are highly scratch-resistant and fade-resistant. Historically, the difficulty of manufacturing and processing them severely limited the range of colors and finishes available. However, in recent years, vibrant primary colors, delicate nuanced colors, and even the beautiful surface finishes characteristic of high-end watches have become possible. These represent a technological achievement, reached by brands that have overcome numerous challenges. Watch experts have carefully selected watches that push the limits of this material, a source of pride for each brand.

A ceramic model that challenges color expression and surface finish.

10th Place: IWC Big Pilot's Watch Top Gun “Mojave Desert”

23 points / 2 people

IWC has been researching ceramic cases for quite some time. Recently, they seem to be focusing on earth-toned ceramics, as seen in this "Big Pilot's Watch Top Gun 'Mojave Desert'." While other companies tend to pursue vivid colors, IWC's direction is something to keep a close eye on. (Nabata)

9. Bvlgari Octo Finissimo

25 points / 2 people

The ultra-thin ceramic case is unusual enough, but the matte surface is achieved through sandblasting. The abrasive used to create the matte finish on high-hardness ceramics must be made of even harder ceramics, which is another aspect I'd like to investigate further. (Nabata)

8th place: Richard Mille / RM 07-01 Automatic Color Ceramics

28 points / 2 people

This model specializes in the playful use of colored ceramics. Therefore, the fact that TZP ceramics are used not only for the case but also for the dial's decoration is a truly delightful touch. (Nogami)

7th Place: IWC Pilot's Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Miramar

32 points / 2 people

"Intermediate colors" are a key concept in modern watches. While Parmigiani Fleurier excels at this in dials, IWC's progress in ceramic cases, where they are developing their own colors in collaboration with Pantone, is particularly striking. Their unique color palette possesses an unparalleled sense of style, achieving truly indescribable hues. (Ando)

6th place: Omega/Speedmaster series

33 points / 5 people

The Speedmaster Grey Side of the Moon, with its gray dial and richly evocative use of gray ceramics, is sure to delight, drawing inspiration from the words of Apollo 8 command module pilot Jim Lovell: "The moon is essentially gray." (Nogami)

5. Audemars Piguet/Royal Oak in general

34 points / 2 people

This watch simply replaces the exterior of an existing model with ceramic, but it's done in a remarkably difficult way. Normally, when switching to ceramic, the entire exterior design is redesigned. However, Audemars Piguet has managed to give the ceramic model the exact same exterior design and finish as the regular model. It must have been costly, but their refusal to change it was likely a matter of pride. (Hirota)

4th Place: Zenith Chronomaster Sport 160th Edition

35 points / 3 people

The "Chronomaster Sport 160th Edition" boasts a superb color palette that tells a story, intertwined with the life of founder Georges Favre-Jacot, who often gazed at the starry sky. While the colors are bright, the micro-blast finish gives it a refined, understated look that shouldn't be overlooked. (Nogami)

3rd Place: Audemars Piguet / Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph (all models)

48 points / 3 people

Ref. 26238CD.OO.1300CD.01 is a model with exquisite colors that express "Night Blue, Cloud 50." The hand-finished combination of matte and polished surfaces brings out a rich expression. This is a watch that demonstrates the ability to express one's own identity. (Nogami)

2nd place: Hublot/Big Bang series

91 points / 6 people

When it comes to pioneers in colored ceramics, Hublot is undoubtedly at the forefront. The "Big Bang Unico Yellow Magic" is a masterpiece that boasts an overwhelming presence with its striking combination of yellow and black. (Nabata)

"Big Bang Unico Yellow Magic" is a brilliant piece that expands the boundaries of pop art expression using ceramics. (Shinoda)

1st place: Chanel / J12 series

95 points / 6 people

This historically significant machine created a trend of combining high-tech materials with a standard shape. However, its beautifully transparent surface finish exudes an air of being "no ordinary." (Nabata)

A milestone masterpiece that revolutionized the era. (Shinoda)

Details of the models selected by the selection committee

Aki Nogami, watch and jewelry journalist
"The storytelling involved with the materials is also interesting."

Ceramics, which have recently gained attention as an alternative to gold whose price has soared, are now available in a variety of colors, including not only vibrant hues but also pastel shades, which are considered difficult to produce. Many brands are using the rich colors and meticulous finishes to create exquisite nuanced colors, aligning them with their brand legacy. This approach suggests that ceramics will become a staple material in the future.

1. Chanel / J12 BLEU Caliber 12.1
2. Richard Mille / RM 07-01 Automatic Color Ceramics
3. Zenith Chronomaster Sport 160th Edition
4. IWC Ingenieur Automatic 42 Ref.IW338903
5. Audemars Piguet / Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph Ref. 26238CD.OO.1300CD.01
6. Hublot Big Bang One Click Mint Green Ceramic Diamond
7. Panerai / Panerai Luminor GMT Ceramica PAM01460
8. Omega Speedmaster Grey Side of the Moon
9. Hublot Big Bang 20th Anniversary Red Magic

Tetsuo Shinoda (50 years old) Watch Director
"Modern ceramics that allow you to enjoy expressiveness"

Ceramics are evolving from a hard, scratch-resistant, practical material to a material that allows for creative expression. The speed and breadth of their development is astonishing. The appeal of ceramic models lies in their balance of practicality and aesthetics. The individuality that changes depending on the balance between these two elements is also appealing. I purchased a ceramic model about three years ago. It's lightweight and resistant to scratches from friction and impact, so I'm very satisfied.

1. Hublot Classic Fusion Orlinski Black Magic
2. Audemars Piguet / Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph
3. Chanel/J12
4. Rado True Thinline
5. Hublot Big Bang Unico Mint Green Ceramic
6. Richard Mille / RM 07-01 Automatic Color Ceramics
7. IWC Ingenieur Automatic 42 Ref.IW338903
8. Tudor Black Bay Ceramic
9. Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon
10. Hublot Big Bang Unico Yellow Magic

Natsuki Ando (50 years old) Watch journalist
"Color ceramics are moving to the next stage."

Ceramics, which previously struggled to produce strong colors, now offer brighter, more vibrant hues thanks to technological advancements. However, this flashiness has also given them a somewhat toy-like appearance. With the growing popularity of neutral-colored dials, it's natural that this trend would extend to watch cases. Since neutral colors demand a more refined sense of color, this will truly test the capabilities of each brand.

1. Chanel/J12 BLEU
2. Audemars Piguet / Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph Night Blue, Cloud 50 movement model
3. IWC Pilot's Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Miramar
4. Hublot Big Bang One Click Mint Green Ceramic Diamond
5. Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback 160th Edition

Norio Takagi (63 years old) Writer
"A ceramic watch that shines with originality"

The manufacturing technology for ceramic watches, pioneered by Rado and IWC, has evolved dramatically in the last 40 years. Improvements in mold forming and machining have made complex processing of this material possible. It is also said that all colors from a given color sample can be reproduced. The finishes, such as laser processing and hairline-like matte finishes, are also remarkable. Now that ceramics have become commonplace, we have selected 10 pieces that stand out for their uniqueness.

1. Hublot Big Bang Unico Magic Ceramic
2. Rado Plasma High-Tech Ceramics - All Models
3. Chanel / J12 BLEU Caliber 12.1
4. Audemars Piguet / Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openwork
5. IWC Big Pilot's Watch Top Gun “Mojave Desert”
6. Blancpain/Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Complete Calendar
7. Zenith Chronomaster Sport 160th Edition
8. Tudor Black Bay Ceramic "Blue"
9. Louis Vuitton / Tambour Automatic Ceramic
10. Omega Speedmaster Grey Side of the Moon

Masaharu Nabata (66 years old) Watch writer
"Bold colors are where your sense of style really comes into play."

After hearing the theme for this post and doing some research, I was a little surprised to find that there are still very few models experimenting with color or surface treatment, and that the vast majority are matte black. However, I realized that flashiness isn't necessarily a good thing; rather, it's the wearer's sense of style that really matters, as I introduced some of my favorite vivid-colored models. As usual, they're all on equal footing, no ranking.

• Chanel/J12
• Rado/True Square Skeleton
• Hublot Big Bang Unico Yellow Magic
• Omega Speedmaster Moonphase Blue Side of the Moon
• Zenith Chronomaster Sport 160th Edition
• Bvlgari/Octo Finissimo
• IWC Big Pilot's Watch Top Gun “Mojave Desert”

Masamasa Hirota (51 years old), Editor-in-Chief of Chronos Japan and Art Soldier
"The unexpected dark horse was IWC."

Ceramics can now be used to create a wide range of colors. Due to the material's properties, a screw-down case back cannot be used, but IWC has made this possible through ingenious case design. Moreover, the case diameter is only 41mm. The new "J12," which integrates the case back for improved airtightness, is also very appealing.

1. Audemars Piguet / Royal Oak Ref. 26240CE.OO.1225CE.01
2. Hublot Big Bang Integrated Sky Blue Ceramic
3. IWC Pilot's Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Miramar
4. Bvlgari/Octo Finissimo
5. Chanel/J12
6. Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon
7. Bell & Ross BR-05 Black Ceramic
8. Rado True Square Thinline
9. Grand Seiko GMT SBGC253
10. Panerai Luminor 10 Giorni GMT Ceramica

Ranking calculation rules
●The selection committee will select 10 watches that fit the theme of each issue and rank them.
●Each selection committee member will have 110 points, which will be distributed among the selected models as follows: 20 points for 1st place, 18 points for 2nd place, ... 2 points for 10th place.
●If the selected watches are not ranked, the points will be divided equally among the models, and each model will be given 11 points.
(Even if the number of selected models is less than 10, each model will be awarded 11 points.)
●In the event of a tie in points, the following will be prioritized: the model with the most votes, the model with the highest ranking among those votes, and the model with the lowest price setting.
●The minimum number of valid votes is two.