Top 10 Must-See Watches at Watches & Wonders Geneva 2026

This year's Watches & Wonders Geneva opened with a cautious atmosphere. However, each brand further refined its unique strengths, resulting in a venue brimming with "flavor." With the trend toward smaller sizes becoming established, a succession of models featuring meticulous refinements of masterpieces and exquisite decorations appeared. It was a fruitful year, with truly valuable watches that condensed mechanism and aesthetic sense into small cases. Here are the top 10 notable watches selected by watch experts.

Watches & Wonders Geneva: Notable Works

10th Place: Rolex / Oyster Perpetual (all models)

25 points / 4 people

This 41mm model, released to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the Rolex Oyster case, incorporates design elements celebrating the 100th anniversary throughout. The combination of gold and stainless steel without a date display is also perfectly on-trend. (Nabata)

9th place: Van Cleef & Arpels / Midnight Yule Dicci et Yule D'ailleurs Watch

28 points / 2 people

Compared to its predecessor in 2018, the diameter has been reduced from 42mm to 38mm, and the enamel's color scheme is incredibly complex and elegant. I find it a very attractive watch. If someone were to appear before me wearing such a watch casually, I would be captivated by everything about it. (Goto)

8th place: H. Moser / Streamliner Two Hands

30 points / 2 people

This is a smaller version of a popular model, but it possesses a presence that goes beyond that. The deliberate choice of two hands on a 34mm diameter case is perfectly in line with modern sensibilities. Furthermore, the dial features a frosted fumé finish, and its beauty is instantly recognizable as H. Moser even without the logo. In a sense, it might be the perfected form of the Streamliner. (Ando)

7th place: Van Cleef & Arpels / Midnight Jour Nuit Fars de Lune Watch

30 points / 2 people

Both the technique and the expression are superb. (Shinoda)

6th place: A. Lange & Söhne / Saxonia Annual Calendar

30 points / 3 people

Equipped with the newly developed Cal.207.1, the calendar and moon phase displays can be operated using separate push buttons, and both can be adjusted simultaneously with the push button at the 10 o'clock position. The push buttons cannot be unlocked unless the crown is pulled out, showcasing a remarkable mechanism that thoroughly considers practicality. (Ando)

5. Chopard/LUC 1860

31 points / 3 people

First, I would like to highly commend the beautiful, finely textured guilloché dial, which is subtly colored in a smoky blue. In addition, it matches perfectly with the gray grained leather strap. (Nabata)

4. Bvlgari Octo Finissimo

36 points / 2 people

I am quite fond of the Octo Finissimo watch and own one myself. It's always been a good watch, but the new 37mm size might just be the perfect addition to this collection. The craftsmanship looks refined rather than just luxurious, and it feels very modern. I think it's a watch that doesn't bother you in a bad way. (Hirota)

Despite its size, the three-dimensional case design remains intact. It's very beautiful. (Shinoda)

3rd Place: Parmigiani Fleurier/Tonda PF Chronograph Mystérieuse

38 points / 2 people

This watch, which combines beauty, functionality, and originality, was a major draw at this year's Watches & Wonders. It's also interesting that it shares a similar appearance with the GMT Rattrapante and Minute Rattrapante. As someone who loves simple designs, owns a Tonda PFGMT Rattrapante, and has been searching for a Mido Multi-Center Chrono, this watch was right up my alley. (Goto)

2. Zenith/GFJ

40 points / 4 people

The GFJ series features the revived, historically significant Cal. 135 movement. One of the new models, in particular, uses the noteworthy material "tantalum" for the case, and the dial incorporates onyx, a popular semi-precious stone, making it a watch with all the elements you'd want right now. (Ando)

The expressive power of the semi-precious stone dial is superb. (Shinoda)

1. Cartier Santos-Dumont

51 points / 4 people

Cartier has been full of話題 this year, including the revival of the "Roadster." The most distinctive feature of this "Santos Dumont" is its newly developed gold bracelet. The 15-link bracelet, inspired by a special order piece from the 1920s, can stand alone as the main attraction. It is supple and comfortable to wear. (Ando)

A legendary masterpiece coveted by watch enthusiasts. The new model has gained new appeal by combining a new bracelet with fine links and a hard, understated stone dial. (Nabata)

Details of the models selected by the selection committee

Yohei Goto (50 years old), Editorial Writer for the Asahi Shimbun
"Is it a dream, or something simple, or both?"

I'm a journalist who covers watches, but I'm also a relatively new watch collector. As a journalist, I have an eye for dreamlike new mechanisms and decorations, and at the same time, I have a perspective that seeks out simple and beautiful things from the viewpoint of "what if I could own this?"... In other words, two completely different vectors coexist, and I'm always torn, but this time too, I'm drawn to watches at both extremes.

1. Parmigiani Fleurier/Tonda PF Chronograph Mystérieuse
2. Cartier/Santos Dumont (Obsidian Dial)
3. Grand Seiko Masterpiece Collection Hand-wound Spring Drive SBGZ011
4. Van Cleef & Arpels / Midnight Yule D'Ici et Yule D'Ailleurs Watch
5. Patek Philippe Celestial, Sunrise and Sunset Times 6105G
6. Chopard/LUC 1860
7. Zenith/GFJ 18K Yellow Gold Case
8. Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 (Jubilee Bracelet Model)
9. Jaeger-LeCoultre / Master Control Chronometer Date Power Reserve
10. Hublot Big Bang Impact 1 Million

Tetsuo Shinoda (51 years old) Watch Director
"I'm a little interested in watches that are becoming accessories."

I have a preference for robust, high-quality watches, but having bought so many, I'm honestly getting a little tired of them. I was thinking I might want something different, and suddenly I became interested in watches with strong individuality that function more like accessories. Small in size, slightly excessive in terms of decoration. Not quiet luxury, but something that truly expresses individuality. Adults are quite demanding, after all.

1. Cartier / Baignoire (Clou de Paris motif)
2. Frederique Constant / Classic Manchette
3. Bvlgari/Octo Finissimo
4. H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Two Hands 34mm
5. Piaget/Swingin' Pebble
6. Van Cleef & Arpels / Midnight Jour Nuit Phases de Lune Watch
7. Hermes / Slim d'Hermès Pocket ROAAAAAR!
8. Zenith/GFJ
9. Chanel J12 Golden Black 28mm
10. Rolex/Oyster Perpetual 34

Natsuki Ando (50 years old) Watch journalist
"While it was a good film, there were few surprises."

The trend towards smaller diameters, semi-precious stone dials, and new case materials seems to be staying true to recent trends. Miniaturization isn't just about reducing size; it's about creating new appeal, and many brands succeeded this year. The same goes for the dials and cases, making it difficult to rank the top models. On the other hand, there were few completely new designs, and I would have liked to see more refined archive models as well as new, forward-looking creations.

1. IWC Big Pilot's Watch Perpetual Calendar Ceralium
2. Zenith/GFJ
3. H. Moser / Streamliner Two Hands
4. Van Cleef & Arpels / Midnight Yule D'Ici et Yule D'Ailleurs Watch
5. Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Collection Spring Drive UFA Ushio 300 Diver
6. Cartier Santos Dumont Ref. CRWGSA0123
7. Chanel / J12 COCO GAME
8. Rolex/Oyster Perpetual 36
9. Chopard/LUC Quattro Spirit 25 Straw Marquetry Edition
10. A. Lange & Söhne / Saxonia Annual Calendar

Norio Takagi (63 years old) Writer
"Each company will demonstrate its originality and compete with its unique characteristics."

While the trend towards smaller diameters and classic designs continues, it's not as pronounced as last year, and each brand's individuality is more strongly felt. There's much to see in the meticulous refinements of iconic models and new movements, and craftsmanship approaches such as skeletonization and métiers d'art were also being explored. The wide variety will encourage the acquisition of new customers. The outlook for the watch industry this year is bright.

1. Van Cleef & Arpels / Midnight Jour Nuit Fars de Lune Watch
2. A. Lange & Söhne / Saxonia Annual Calendar
3. Tudor Royal 36mm
4. Patek Philippe / Golden Ellipse 3738/100G
5. Cartier/Santos-Dumont
6. Chopard/LUC 1860
7. Zenith GF J (Tantalum Model)
8. Jaeger-LeCoultre / Master Control Chronometer
9. IWC Pilot's Watch Chronograph "Le Petit Prince"
10. TAG Heuer / TAG Heuer Monaco Evergraph

Masaharu Nabata (66 years old) Watch writer
"Simple, beautiful, and valuable timepieces."

Having taken a quick look at W&W's new releases this year, I noticed that the trend towards smaller and thinner watches is definitely continuing, and the absence of a date display is also spreading to many manufacturers. It really reinforces the idea that people are looking for beautiful and valuable timepieces with a compact case that condenses the mechanism. As usual, they're all on equal footing, no ranking.

• Cartier/Santos-Dumont
• Chopard/LUC 1860
• Chronoswiss Pulse GMT Enamel Sky Gold
• Pequignet / Royal Paris Chrono
• Rolex/Oyster Perpetual 41
• Louis Moinet/1816
• Autorance/Kubera Series 1
• H. Moser / Streamliner Pump
• Ulysse Nardin / Superfreak
• Raymond Weil / Millesime The Fifty

Masamasa Hirota (52 years old), Editor-in-Chief of Chronos Japan and Art Soldier
"This time, I deliberately chose a model with a more 'subtle' character."

Given the uncertain market conditions, Watches & Wonders 2026 had a predominantly conservative feel. Therefore, this time we focused on the improved standard models from each company. The exceptions were the chronographs from TAG Heuer and Parmigiani Fleurier. However, their unique mechanisms meant they weren't cheap.

1. Bvlgari/Octo Finissimo
2. Parmigiani Fleurier/Tonda PF Chronograph Mystérieuse
3. TAG Heuer / TAG Heuer Monaco Evergraph
4. Jaeger-LeCoultre / Master Control Chronometer
5. Cartier Roadster
6. A. Lange & Söhne / Saxonia Annual Calendar
7. Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Cardinal Point
8. Hermes / Hermes H08 Skellet
9. Patek Philippe / Golden Ellipse 3738/100G
10. Tudor/Royal

Ranking calculation rules
●The selection committee will select 10 watches that fit the theme of each issue and rank them.
●Each selection committee member will have 110 points, which will be distributed among the selected models as follows: 20 points for 1st place, 18 points for 2nd place, ... 2 points for 10th place.
●If the selected watches are not ranked, the points will be divided equally among the models, and each model will be given 11 points.
(Even if the number of selected models is less than 10, each model will be awarded 11 points.)
●In the event of a tie in points, the following will be prioritized: the model with the most votes, the model with the highest ranking among those votes, and the model with the lowest price setting.
●The minimum number of valid votes is two.