[81 points] Nomos/Luxe

Nomos Lux

Nomos has gone beyond the image of a reasonably priced manufacture watch with a stripped-down design, and is challenging upper-class brands with a white gold model. What exactly is luxury, which cannot be measured simply by price?

+point
- The case is exquisitely finished
- Unique design that reflects the Nomos style
- Equipped with an in-house caliber in accordance with Glashütte tradition

-point
・High price
・Decorative polishing is not perfect

Watchmaking and the Bauhaus

TaNomos has a reputation for offering a good balance between overall quality and price, with models like the Tangente and Orion, which are difficult for other brands to beat. While traditionally focused on hand-wound models, the brand has recently expanded its lineup, along with the level of craftsmanship. The variety is not limited to models with date displays, automatic winding, and power reserve indicators; some even incorporate world time mechanisms into the base caliber. This has led to a corresponding shift in price. While the simple hand-wound Tangente is still reasonably priced at ¥24 (38mm diameter, no date), the automatic Tangomat is ¥34 (38mm diameter, no date), and the Zurich series World Time is ¥63 (39mm diameter). In other words, Nomos is not only producing models that are priced to their full potential, but is also expanding its range into higher price ranges. The next logical step would be to add a gold model with a movement that is finely polished and decorated, and two gold models were released last fall: the round Lambda with a power reserve indicator and the tonneau-shaped Luxe, which was featured in this test.

This model has to be said to have a rather bold design for NOMOS. The case is made of white gold and has a tonneau shape. It uses a basic movement, and the outer part of the dial circle is a vibrant light blue. NOMOS' press release states that this version is reminiscent of a certain small kitchen clock from the past. This is likely a reference to the light blue kitchen timer clock shaped like an upside-down egg that Max Bill, who followed the traditional Bauhaus design, designed for Junghans in 1957.
The light blue used complements the geometrically constructed indexes and hands made of extremely thin bars, and suits this model well. The Luxe is a finish that is instantly recognizable as a NOMOS watch. The dial configuration and hands are reminiscent of the brand's Orion, and the case is not rigidly rigid but rather has a slightly playful feel. While extremely compact, the rounded edges and corners are a testament to the craftsmanship of the original. The crystal is also gently bulging. The slim wire-like lugs are actually equipped with spring bars, and by moving a small lever on the back of the strap, the strap can be changed without tools.

Made from premium hand-tanned leather

As for the straps, they're not entirely unique. They come in two common colors, black and dark brown, and are made of horsehide. However, this leather, durable enough for luxury shoes, is sourced from Horween, a long-established leather manufacturer in Chicago. The pore-free, moderately oily leather from the horse's rump is tanned largely by hand, and the resulting leather, which takes six months to tan, has a distinctive, pleasant smell. This horsehide, known as shell cordovan, is also used for straps on other Nomos models, but the Luxe model has more padding inside, giving it a plump finish rather than a flat one like the other models, giving it a luxurious feel.
The white gold buckle has also been newly designed for the Luxe model. The buckle does not stop at the end of the strap, but extends towards the strap itself, with a bar with a tack rod running through it in the middle of the buckle. This practical detail is visually well-matched with the wire-like lugs and is very beautiful. Like the case, it has been polished with such care that you can't see any traces of the work unless you look at the back through the scratch detector. The case has been milled, and you can tell by the slight slits made for opening the snap-type back cover fitted with sapphire crystal. The same impression is given by the way the bezel and case fit together. These are just some of the things that confirm the quality of the finishing work.