The ever-evolving icon
Rolex / Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona
The new stainless steel Daytona with a ceramic bezel is one of the most sought-after watches in the world today. The German Kronos editorial team had the opportunity to review one that has just gone on sale in Germany. Is it worth waiting years to get your hands on a Cosmograph Daytona?
Text by Jens Koch
Markus Krüger: Photography
Photographs by Marcus Krüger
Mie Okamoto: Translation
Translation by Yoshie Okamoto
+point
・Classical design
Scratch-resistant bezel
-Highly accurate and robust in-house movement
・Outstanding processing quality
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・入手困難
Visibility is somewhat difficult
Rolex is one of the most famous and highest-selling luxury watch brands, known for producing numerous iconic models such as the Submariner, GMT-Master II, Cosmograph Daytona, Datejust, and Day-Date. These models were released over 50 years ago, but their designs have remained virtually unchanged since then. While stainless steel models are popular in Germany, more expensive lines such as precious metal models and diamond watches are also popular in other countries. While Rolex manufactures all of its movements in-house, it is constantly striving for further improvement and is constantly engaged in fundamental research. Even the alloy used for its hairsprings is a proprietary development.
CoIf you wanted a Smograph Daytona (hereafter referred to as Daytona), you had to wait a bit longer. There was a time when it wasn't uncommon to have to wait years at a watch and jewelry store to get your hands on a stainless steel Daytona. While this has calmed down in recent years, the wait may be back to normal with Rolex's 2016 release of a stainless steel Daytona with a ceramic bezel. The ceramic bezel was already available on the Everose gold Daytona and was also featured on the platinum model released in 2013. So, this latest addition isn't a surprise. It's part of a strategy often seen at Rolex, where innovative technology is first introduced in the more profitable gold model, and then, a few years later, is applied to the stainless steel model.
Of course, the Daytona's history began with a stainless steel model. This chronograph, featuring a tachymeter-engraved bezel, was introduced in 1963. The 1965 model featured screw-down pushers and a black Plexiglas bezel insert. In 1988, the Daytona finally became automatic with the introduction of the Zenith El Primero. This time, Rolex reduced the El Primero's 36,000 vph movement to 28,800 vph. In 2000, the in-house automatic chronograph caliber 4130 was introduced. Robustness, high accuracy, and a long power reserve were key factors during its development. From this point on, all Rolex movements were manufactured in-house.
The Daytona once enjoyed a special position as Rolex's only chronograph. For decades, it was the most complicated watch available from the brand whose trademark is the crown. This situation changed with the release of the Yacht-Master II in 2007, which featured a regatta chronograph. However, the Yacht-Master II was specifically designed for yacht racing in both functionality and design, and its popularity has not rivaled that of the iconic Daytona, a model with a motorsports theme.
