Oris Aquis Date Caliber 400
Small but effective changes
Oris unveiled the new generation of the Aquis Date at Watches & Wonders Geneva. At first glance, it seems like an old friend, and it's the same old thing. However, upon closer inspection of this sporty tool watch, the Aquis Date Calibre 400, many details have been redesigned.
Photographs by Oris
Translation by Yoshie Okamoto
Edited by Yousuke Ohashi
[Article published in the July 2024 issue of Kronos Japan]
Plus points, minus points
+point
・A masterpiece that has been beautifully renewed
・Manufacture movement
-Good accuracy
・Long power reserve
- Excellent magnetic resistance
- Practical quick adjustment system
-Long manufacturer warranty and maintenance-free period
-point
- The diving bezel only has minute markings up to 15 minutes
Oris itself describes the new Aquis Date Calibre 400 as "the next generation of versatile professional watches for everyday use that exude modern luxury and make sense to the wearer."
The new collection not only emphasizes Swiss watchmaking, mechanics and design, but also sustainability, in order to appeal to more than just knowledgeable watch enthusiasts.
The new Aquis Date Calibre 400 also comes in a new presentation box, which Oris sees as a major step in the brand's ambitious carbon emissions reduction program.
In 2022, Oris set a goal to reduce its carbon dioxide emissions by 10% each year for the next three years. This goal focused on watch packaging. Traditional presentation boxes are expensive to manufacture and often end up being discarded. The new boxes are light, compact, and made from recycled cardboard, which can be recycled after use.
The new boxes keep watches safe and help Oris reduce its plastic consumption by more than 1.5 tonnes per year and its carbon footprint from packaging by 50%, without compromising the customer experience.
Contrary to the concerns raised at the time of its introduction, the presentation box has been well received. Despite being 65% lighter than the previous presentation box, when you hold it in your hand you can clearly feel its value and weight.
A new case with excellent finish
The new Aquis Date, in a beautiful blue color, looks as if it has emerged from the depths of the ocean. It is a rugged tool watch designed for use on land, but also functions as a professional diver's watch.
The multi-component 43.5mm stainless steel case features a unidirectional rotating bezel, essential for a diver's watch. The interlocking 30-second bezel is inlaid with ceramic and is marked in one-minute increments for the first 15 minutes, then in five-minute increments thereafter. Like every other detail of the new Aquis, the bezel has been carefully redesigned.
The bezel is slightly angled downwards, blending seamlessly with the domed sapphire crystal, which is anti-reflective on one side.
Secure stainless steel bracelet
The shape of the crown protector has also been revised. This part, which protects the sides of the crown, is slightly smaller than in previous models, and its thickness has been reduced by making it more tapered.
The screw-down crown, with grooves on the side, is easy to operate. It is easy to release and can be operated stably even when pulled to the first or second position. To return it to its original position, simply push gently.
The lugs, which give an impression of solidity, have been redesigned with redesigned edges and facets, which have brought about a change in the overall silhouette of the watch.
A notable feature of the Aquis Date Calibre 400 is its three-link bracelet, which features a "quick strap change" system that allows it to be easily removed from the watch. This mechanism, patented by Oris, is practical and ensures a secure connection between the watch and bracelet. The bracelet's joint tabs are passed through the spring bars on the watch case, then folded inward, and snapped onto the protruding metal part on the bracelet to complete the installation.
The bracelet also features Oris's patented new "Quick Adjust Clasp System," which contributes to a comfortable fit. Without removing the watch from your wrist, you can gently press the two buttons on either side of the clasp to shift the position of the clasp plate, allowing you to extend it in two stages by up to approximately 5 mm. Additionally, the clasp also has a built-in diver's extension that allows for 15 mm of adjustment. Looking at the modifications made to the bracelet, it's clear that Oris places great importance on functionality.
The shape of the stainless steel bracelet has also been revised: the overall shape of the bracelet tapers towards the buckle, while the central brushed links are now wider.
Date display disc that matches the dial color
Now let's take a look at the dial. The hour and minute hands are similar in shape to the Alpha hands, and the polished hour markers are shaped like shields. These parts are coated with luminous paint, so they glow blue in the dark. The dot on the second hand also glows in the dark, so you can be sure the watch is working properly even when diving in dark waters.
Instead of an index, there is a date window at 6 o'clock, with a small dot placed around the outside. The date disc is blue to match the dial, creating a beautiful contrast with the white numerals that indicate the date.
Above the date window, the model name, 300m water resistance, and approximately 5 days of power reserve are written in a new font that is only used in the Aquis series.
Long power reserve for diving
The watch is highly water resistant thanks to its robust case with a sapphire crystal caseback and a screw-down crown.
The Caliber 400, a manufacture movement released in 2020, has a long power reserve of approximately 120 hours, achieved by using two barrels connected in series.
Cal. 400 is adjusted to a range of minus 3 seconds per day to plus 5 seconds per day, a specification that meets stricter standards than those of an officially certified chronometer. In a wear test, the average daily rate was just under plus 2 seconds per day when fully wound, and just plus 1.5 seconds per day when worn. It is also worth noting that the range was stable.
In addition to its long power reserve, the Aquis Date Caliber 400 features a stop-seconds mechanism, a quick-change date display, and an automatic rotor that uses a sliding bearing rather than a ball bearing, which is unusual.
According to Oris, the slide bearing withstood a shock equivalent to 5000 G in a load test. In addition, the Cal. 400 has high magnetic resistance, and more than 30 parts, including a silicon pallet fork and escape wheel, are made with magnetically resistant materials to minimize the influence of surrounding magnetic fields when worn.
Thanks to these technological improvements, Oris offers a 10-year manufacturer's warranty and a long maintenance-free period of approximately 10 years.
The Caliber 400, designed for reliability, plays a vital role in the Aquis Date diver's watch, and can be viewed through the sapphire crystal caseback.
Oris Aquis' vision is realized here: to offer a sporty tool watch that satisfies the modern cosmopolitan who demands luxury, performance and sophistication all at once.
