[85 points] Rate the Montblanc/Montblanc Ice Sea Automatic Date Zero Oxygen

Since its debut in 2022, Montblanc's "Ice Sea" collection has attracted attention with its glacier-like dial. This time, it has been sealed with zero oxygen technology, further evolving the collection. We take a closer look at the capabilities of this new collection, which combines a unique appearance with advanced functionality.

A diving watch for mountaineers

　Since Laurent Lecrin took over as Montblanc's watch director in 2021, the brand's watch collection has evolved with a clear direction. Aside from limited edition complicated watches and high-end models bearing the Minerva name, Montblanc's current philosophy revolves around the theme of "mountaineering," as suggested by the brand name.

　"Mountaineering" here goes beyond the narrow definition. The Alps and the world of life and experiences that unfold there are the source of inspiration. It is the driving force behind innovation, aiming to bring unique value to the wearer. Original design, practical technology, and robustness are all beautifully combined in a watch with sophisticated aesthetics.

A glacier-inspired dial

　The defining feature of Montblanc's "Ice Sea," released in 2022, is its dial. The brand's goal in developing the watch was to create a unique surface finish that evokes the crystalline structure of a glacier. Laurent Lecrin drew inspiration from the Mer de Glace, the largest glacier in the Mont Blanc massif. German poet Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, who visited the glacier in 1779, famously described the glacier's enormous ice masses as a frozen deluge.

　After extensive discussions with dial manufacturers, Lecrin succeeded in reviving a traditional finishing technique that had long fallen into disuse due to its laborious nature. This technique, known as "gratte boisé," involves various pre-treatments on a 0.3-0.4mm thick piece of material with an embossed pattern, followed by delicate surface treatments using wood and abrasive brushes. It takes more than 30 steps to complete the process. Finally, multiple layers of clear lacquer are applied to give the dial a unique texture reminiscent of a glacier, and the dial is finally complete.

　Indeed, the defining feature of the Icy Sea is its distinctive dial. This is also true of our test watch, the Montblanc Icy Sea Automatic Date Zero Oxygen, crafted in distressed steel (antique-style steel). Some may be curious about this particular case material, which we'll discuss in more detail later.

　At first glance, this dial resembles a dial made of meteorite. However, the dial made using the Gratte Boisée technique used on the Ice Sea has a more irregular structure, with carefully crafted areas and smoother areas being more noticeable. The model we tested, with its silver-gray gradient dial, is particularly evocative of a world trapped in ice.

　Furthermore, the dial's color gradually darkens from the center to the periphery, eventually blending seamlessly into the black ceramic bezel, another key element of the watch. It's reminiscent of the sfumato effect, a painting technique that originated during the Renaissance and is one of the watch's greatest charms. The sfumato effect is a painting technique that uses light and dark colors and gradations without the use of outlines. "Sfumato" means "to blur like smoke" in Italian, and is famously used in Leonardo da Vinci's famous painting, the Mona Lisa.

　The bezel's scale ring, made of black ceramic, has a surface that is divided into matte and polished finishes. Many diver's watches emphasize the first 15 minutes of the time, which is important information for divers, by using a different color for the minute markers on the bezel.

　In contrast, Ice Sea's unique laser processing technique allows the bezel to be recognized by its unique texture. By precisely cutting out the surface of the material with a laser, the Arabic numerals and bar indexes are slightly raised, and the 0-15 minute section of the scale ring is given a matte finish, creating a rough texture. This clearly distinguishes it from the remaining three-quarters of the bezel, which is polished, both visually and tactilely.

Rich and captivating details

　The charm of this Ice Sea is its richness of intricate detail. The crown, which is adorned with a three-dimensional "white star" in the shape of a hexagram, Montblanc's symbol, follows the unique surface treatment used on the first 15 minutes of the bezel. It is noteworthy that the white star, which is normally displayed in white on a black background, has been deliberately unified in black here, further enhancing the dark tone of the entire watch.

　Returning to the dial, elements such as the railroad minute markers, the classic Montblanc brand logo, and the Ice Sea logo at 6 o'clock create a subtle vintage feel, keeping the retro atmosphere just right.

　The gray and black color scheme features a clear contrast between the hour and minute hands and indices, ensuring high legibility. All of these elements are coated with white Super-LumiNova, a luminous material, and are framed in a rhodium-plated frame. In dark places, the white Super-LumiNova glows a bright blue, ensuring legibility. This not only fits the glacier theme, but also makes perfect sense for a diver's watch, as the color remains visible even at greater depths.

Distressed steel texture

　Following details like the dial, bezel, and crown, the fourth feature that clearly differentiates this model from the rest of the Ice Sea collection is the case finish. The 41mm diameter, 12.9mm thick stainless steel case is coated with black PVD and then artificially aged. Montblanc calls this material distressed steel. To achieve this unique worn-in appearance, the hand-cleaned case must be rubbed with a stone for approximately four and a half hours, a laborious process.

　This process uses quartzite collected from the Mont Blanc massif, another expression of Montblanc's identity. While not as bold as the dial or bezel, it is immediately clear that this is a special case not often seen. The hairline finish on the top and sides of the case and the worn-in look on the edges of the lugs are details that are barely noticeable unless you look closely, but they have a definite presence and subtly enhance the overall impression of the watch.

　After seeing how lovingly designed it is, the attention to detail on the black rubber strap is easy to understand: the strap has a deliberately roughened surface, and its rough texture complements the design of the case and dial, as well as the rough texture of the first 15-minute section of the bezel.

　The strap can be adjusted to nine positions to fit your wrist, and the buckle can be easily opened and closed using the push buttons on both sides. However, the quick-change system leaves room for improvement. Pushing the steel-colored slider toward the case retracts the spring bar, allowing you to remove the strap. However, the operation feels a bit stiff, and it takes some getting used to when putting on a different strap. With the emergence of more comfortable and smooth strap changing systems, we hope to see improvements in this area in the future.

Zero Oxygen Technology

　The case back features an intricate laser-engraved iceberg motif, a motif common to all Ice Sea models. The image of a diver underwater symbolizes the watch's 300m water resistance and ISO 6425 diver watch standard. The inside of the case back also hides a notable feature: Montblanc's proprietary technology replaces air with nitrogen, ensuring the movement case is oxygen-free.

　The technology was inspired by mountaineering and developed in conversation with Reinhold Messner, a close friend of the brand and the first man in history to summit all 14 of the 8000-meter peaks without oxygen. While it could be seen as a marketing ploy, the Zero Oxygen technology actually protects the movement's steel components from corrosion. While this technology was originally introduced in other Montblanc models, it will now be standard on the IceSea, which will be released from spring 2025 onwards.

　Owners of older models without Zero Oxygen technology can upgrade their watches during a closed-case operation and exterior check or overhaul. The upgrade costs 26,620 yen for the former and 80,520 yen for the latter. The upgrade does not require shipping to the Montblanc headquarters in Le Locle, Switzerland; it can be performed at any Montblanc service center around the world.

Equipped with Cal.MB24.17

　The movement, Caliber MB24.17, is based on the acclaimed Sellita automatic movement, Caliber SW200. Our test watch showed a positive overall trend in movement accuracy. Using a Witch rate-measuring device, daily deviations ranged from +4 seconds per day to +18 seconds per day in all six positions, with an average daily deviation of +10 seconds per day, a result similar to that observed in wear tests. The date display on this particular watch changed at 2 minutes and 30 seconds after midnight, which is within acceptable limits.

　It's easy to understand why a diver's watch with high performance and an emotional design can be purchased for just 655,600 yen. It's a watch that is a joy to wear, and you'll want to take it off your wrist every now and then to take a closer look at its many details.

Montblanc "Montblanc Ice Sea Automatic Date Zero Oxygen" Specifications

Plus points, minus points

+point
・Impressive dial
・Excellent processing case
・Easy to operate
・Uses zero oxygen technology
-Uniform details
Extremely comfortable fit

-point
- Accuracy varies depending on posture
-Strap replacement is a little difficult

Technical specifications

*Prices are current at the time of publication. This article is a translation of the German version of Kronos.

Accuracy stability test

Evaluation