[80 points] Oris ProPilot Date

With the new "ProPilot Date," announced in November 2025, Oris has evolved its classic pilot watch collection into a more modern, everyday timepiece. This new model combines the DNA of classic pilot watches with a newly positioned date window at 6 o'clock and a three-dimensional textured dial. Its excellent cost performance and subtle design improvements are also noteworthy.

A modern approach that deliberately avoids being a tool watch.

　Introduced in 2014, the "ProPilot" collection is playing an increasingly important role in Oris's lineup. Unlike the nautical-themed "Aquis" and "Divers" collections, it is a reinterpretation of the pilot watch tradition, while still drawing on its historical roots to suit modern lifestyles.

　Oris doesn't appear to have deliberately designed the ProPilot Date as a strictly functional tool watch. This is because it lacks the strict pilot watch code, such as the triangle at the 12 o'clock position. On the other hand, it inherits the DNA of a pilot watch that makes it perfectly suited for everyday wear, with its easy-to-operate large crown, clean dial with a central seconds hand, and clear contrast. These elements contribute to the excellent legibility characteristic of pilot watches and are universal features suitable for any timepiece.

　The new ProPilot Date, announced by Oris in November 2025, differs from the "Big Crown ProPilot Big Date," which has a large date window at the 3 o'clock position, in that it features a smaller date window at the 6 o'clock position. This difference is due to the difference in the movements they use. The Big Date uses the Sellita Cal.SW220 (which has a day display but no window for it), while the new model employs the more widely used Sellita Cal.SW200.

　The placement of the date at the 6 o'clock position further emphasizes the symmetry of the dial. Furthermore, this ProPilot Date is the first model in the latest generation of ProPilot watches. Oris has made various improvements to the details to give the watch a more modern update.

New typography for improved visibility and a refined case.

　There are three major changes in appearance. Firstly, the Arabic numeral indices use new typography. The roundness is slightly reduced, giving it a slightly stronger military feel. It's a shame that the rounded lines of the number "4," which gave the font of the Big Crown ProPilot Big Date a unique charm, have been lost, but the numbers as a whole are more angular and powerful, and this difference is most noticeable in "9" in addition to "4." The "11" is fresh, with the two "1"s very close together, resembling the Roman numeral "II." These indices have a careful satin finish in the vertical direction, giving them a luxurious look.

　Secondly, there's the textured surface of the dial. When viewed with a magnifying glass, it has a leather-like texture, and from a distance, it appears as a rough, matte surface that prevents reflection. Therefore, it would have been even more ideal if the anti-reflective coating had been applied not only to the inside but also to the outside of the sapphire crystal. And thirdly, there are the three-dimensional minute markers. The area around the minute markers rises three-dimensionally from the center of the dial, with raised sections corresponding to each hour, bringing a playful touch to the overall rigorous design.

　The stainless steel case is also more refined than those found on many watches in the same price range. The first thing that catches the eye is the bezel with its diagonally cut grooves. This is an iconic design common to all ProPilot models, including the "ProPilot X" which is equipped with an in-house movement, and its shape is inspired by the turbines of an airplane's jet engine.

　In the new ProPilot Date, this element is also applied to the edge of the case back, and the notches can be seen even when viewing the crown from above. Furthermore, the satin-finished case is enhanced by subtly polished elements, such as the lower edges of the lugs and the beveled edges on the lower sides of the case, which give it a three-dimensional feel.

　The ProPilot Date comes in three dial colors: chalk (gray), moss, and black, each available with a leather or stainless steel bracelet. For this test, we chose the gray model with a chalk dial and a matching suede strap. The design is beautifully harmonious, thanks to the interplay of the overall gray tone, black hands, and orange accents. However, visibility in low light is a drawback. The orange Super-LumiNova applied to the hands and small indices is weak, and the application area on the hands is small, making it difficult to read the time in dim light.

An original "lift" clasp inspired by aircraft.

　Despite some legibility issues, the ProPilot Date fits the wrist very well. The case shape, with lugs that curve slightly downwards towards the sides, contributes to this. The clasp, which allows for stepless length adjustment of the leather strap, also plays a significant role. This allows you to wear the watch snugly or loosely, down to the millimeter, to your preference. Once the length is set, opening and closing it is easy with the ingenious "Lift" clasp.

　This clasp, modeled after an airplane seatbelt buckle, features an innovative mechanism that opens simply by lifting the tip. However, when closing, you need to ensure the spring-loaded bar is open; otherwise, it won't lock properly. With daily use, you'll quickly notice that the light-colored suede strap shows signs of aging. This is unavoidable due to the nature of natural materials and does not diminish the strap's flexibility or advantages.

　Accuracy tests using a rate meter showed a good result with an average daily deviation of only +4 seconds, but the variation due to position was somewhat large. The positive value in the "crown down" position was too large, so if the watch is removed at night and placed horizontally with the crown facing down (which is considered the least stressful position for a mechanical watch), it may run faster than expected.

A practical Swiss-made watch with excellent cost performance.

　Oris takes a different approach with the ProPilot Date than many other pilot watchmakers. Instead of simply recreating the historical original model, they interpret the theme more abstractly, creating a modern and sophisticated design that subtly incorporates elements of a field watch. At ¥385,000 (including tax) for the suede strap model, the ProPilot Date boasts a surprising number of high-quality details for a mechanical watch, making it undoubtedly worth considering for anyone seeking a truly excellent Swiss-made timepiece at an attractive price.

Specifications of the Oris "ProPilot Date"

Plus points, minus points

+point
- A distinctive design that blends the tradition of pilot watches with modern elements.
• Excellent contrast between the matte dial and satin-finished indices
- Strap and clasp that can be adjusted to fit your wrist in infinitely small increments.
- A very attractive price point for a Swiss-made mechanical watch.

-point
• Luminova's luminescence is weak in dark places, resulting in low visibility.
- Strong progress is being observed in the "below the crown" position.

Technical specifications

This article is a translation of an article from WatchTime Germany.

Accuracy stability test

Evaluation